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TimL

3 Top Routes?

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wish list: Logan E.Ridge, Articling Blues Buttress and This House of Sky. But I won't climb them.

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wish list: Logan E.Ridge, Articling Blues Buttress and This House of Sky. But I won't climb them.

 

COME ON FERN!! THAT'S NOT THE ATTITUDE FOR SUCCESS!!!

 

LAST WEEK IN FEB?? THIS HOUSE OF SKY!!! I GOT THE CRUX!!

 

 

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Ahh...This House of Sky...we were gonna climb that when we were up in Banff, but didn't get around to it. looks AWESOME!

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I’d have to say these are the routes that inspire me either because of their beauty, quality or technical difficulty. Either way when I’m training these routes give me motivation.

 

Rock:

1.) Clay, Index – redpoint

2.) Super Crack Leavenworth – lead

3.) Kings of Rap, Smith - redpoint

 

1.) Daily Planet, Squamish – redpoint the 1st crux pitch and finish the rest

2.) Juno Tower – Clean Break

3.) Colchuck Balenced Rock – West Face

3t) Temple Range Traverse

3yo) Nose - El Cap – I’ll be back for round II

3yo) Rostrum – North Face

3yo) Astroman

 

(I’m cheating on this one)

 

Alpine –

1) Baker North Ridge

2) Chair – NE Butt

3) Eldorado – NW Couloir

3a) Dragontail – Triple Couloirs

 

Ice

Night n Gale – littlewet

Synchronicity – littlewet

 

Aid:

1) Green Dragon

 

 

Tex – I’ll belay you on ROTC (its soft for the grade, you should onsight it) if you’ll belay me on Supercrack.

 

There is to much to do around here and not enough good weather. Let alone Cascade stuff I gotta make it up to the Canandian Rockies for the alpine season up there.

 

 

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Yea, supercrack is actually doable too if we can figure out that offwidth business at the top. It may be one of those -stick in a #5 and lie-back for 10ft to the anchors.

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Supercrack will go. Might be interesting in terms of the large amounts of air time. fruit.gif I remeber when you, Jens and Highlander were on it this fall. Sounds like the top will be tough and might need cleaning.

Edited by TimL

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a) Liberty Crack- N. Cascades

b) Muldrow Glacier - Denali

c) Serpentine Ridge- Dragontail Peak

 

I'm really happy to be here, now. This is going to be a good climbing year.

x0- Squid

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Alpine

--------

1.Rainier, Gib Ledges

2.Something in the Picket Range(Luna, Chopping Block, Or WMS)

3. Cinderella Peak(Sisters Range), 5.6 buttress

 

 

Trad

--------

1. Dedrie, Squamish

2.The Kone, Darrington

3. Aid University Wall, Sqaumish

Sport

------------

1. On Line, Static Point

2. Local Boys Do Good, Sqaumish

3.All but the two routes I've already done at the Raven's Castle (I LOVE THAT PLACE), Sqaumish.

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The 3 routes I'm going for in 03 :

 

1) Redoubt - NE Face

2) Mox Peaks

3) Liberty Ridge

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1) Ptarmigan Traverse

2) Pasayten Peak-bagging trip (Lago, Robinson, Osceola, and the other one near there)

3) Hell, I'll put in my upcoming climb, W Ridge N Twin in Feb

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What are the 3 top routes your going to go for in 2003. Can be alpine, sport, trad, ice...or top 3 in all catagories? Spray away guys! hahaha.gif

 

Alpine

that thing up there by Harrison Lake

that other thing on the other side of Harrison Lake

that Homathko Icefield thing

 

Sport

scrub bolt and climb that thing in Cheakamus Canyon (x3)

 

Trad

some stuff at squamish i guess - i still have never been on Apron Strings, Split Pillar or Crescent Crack, better do those or they will revoke my squamish local status.

 

ice

synchroslurpee

that thing south of lillooet that fern knows about

crucible

 

 

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Alpine: North ridge of Sphinx

Aid: Never tried it and want to.

Ski (new catagory):1. Emmons Glacier (it's sooo long hahaha.gif)

2: Mt. Fairweather B.C.

3: Mt. Garibaldi NE face

 

 

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Trad

1. Outer Space cantfocus.gif

2. Orbit bigdrink.gif

3. Dreamer crazy.gif

4. Silent Running tongue.gif

5. everything on the Apron hahaha.gif

 

Alpine

1. North Ridge of Index shocked.gif

2. North Ridge of Stuart cool.gif

 

ICE

1. Hanging Glacier on Shuksan in the winter evils3d.gifevils3d.gifshocked.gif

2. the Hour Glass on Shukson in the spring evils3d.gif

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"Tex – I’ll belay you on ROTC (its soft for the grade, you should onsight it) if you’ll belay me on Supercrack."

 

If you want a little more fun do Stevens Pass to get to the base of ROTC. Leading both pitches makes a nice climb.

 

 

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1. Outer Space, 11worth

2. Davis-Holland, Index

3. Sons of Yesterday

 

Yeah e-rock. those sound all doable. I'd like to climb them too. although not on my list for top routes. bigdrink.gif

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Here's my list-

 

Alpine-

NE buttress Jberg (in fucking summer not winter)

Something on Triumph

Dorado Needle or Early Morning Spire by a good route

Sunribbon Arete or Moongoddess arete of Temple Crag

Rock-

Anything in Tuolomne Meadows if I can go

Something new at Lovers Leap

Mary Jane Dihedral

 

Sport-

Cunning Stunt round 2 on toprope. I know it's not sport but if were on toprope then well.......

 

Coast Range- Anything cool looking. Fly in check it out. Climb it.

 

Ice-

Anything that is really fucking good that forms in the next month that I have not climbed and am capable of leading. madgo_ron.gif

 

 

 

 

Edited by Cpt.Caveman

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hey caveman I like it... someone else that has done Mary Jane. Good route although route finding was nasty about 2/3s way up for me and ended up doing a wild unprotected traverse at 5.11 (blind no pro) and hooked into Orbit near the upper "groove."

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Right on. I still wanna try it. I'll back off or bring a ropegun for it if need be. I heard it's good.

 

E-rock well I know many people want to climb outer space every year. I'd like to climb it every year if I could. Let me know when the time comes. It's enjoyable. Here's my bud Dan doing one of the upper pitches. Photo by some magazine dude.

 

DanonOuterSpace-2.jpg

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