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[TR] Mt. Rainier - Kautz Glacier 8/15/2016

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We climbed the Kautz Aug. 15-17. Route was in good condition, but will require increasingly complex crevasse navigation as upper glacier breaks up.


Used Comet Falls approach, bivied at 10,500'. Running water below the Turtle around 7,400'.


Found two pitches of ~AI2 separated by low angle ice steps, which we simulclimbed. Used at most six screws, including anchors. Once over Wapowety, the crossover to upper Nisqually was impassable.


Partner had bad AMS symptoms and we moved too slowly to ascend Kautz Glacier safely, forcing add'l bivy. Next morning, headed for Point Success from top of Wapowety Cleaver instead; should be an easy two day ascent for faster party. Carryover recommended.


Other info: The fixed line down to the glacier is core shot near the bottom and showing significant wear. We opted to use our own rope, though the party behind us did not and survived to tell the tale. Tag Point Success while you're up there - we passed within a few hundred feet and I already regret not stopping by!




Gear: one piolet + one tool, six screws, one picket each (used once, useless). 50m Rope


More photos + full tale of the debacle.

Edited by 0x6E62

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One comment for ya, as someone who has started low multiple times from the Carbon River (both when it was open and now closed), taking two days to get to high camp is well worth it.


From Comet Falls at 3k I would have made a leisurely ascent to 7k-8k for the night. Then gone up to Camp Hazard at around 11k. Two days would have given yourselves more time to acclimate then blast the remaining 3k to the summit making for a short summit day. It might have starved off the AMS and given ya time to poke around Camp Hazard.

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