Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
ilias

[TR] Valhallas - Gimli, Asgard, Niselheim - 8/11/2016

Recommended Posts

Trip: Valhallas - Gimli, Asgard, Niselheim -

 

Date: 8/11/2016

 

Trip Report:

Lisa and I spent 4 days in the Valhallas. A beautiful area and one I will have to come back to do more climbing in the future. Gimli is the classic everyone hears about, but there are like a hundred routes in here, ranging from moderate ridge climbs to hard 5.11 and aid big wall climbs.

 

For the climbs we did, we mostly went by Steph Abegg's beta as well as a trip report from Supertopo, all linked here:

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/valhallas2

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/gimli

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/South-Ridge-of-Gimli-Peak-A-Lesser-Known-Canadian-Classic/t12165n.html

 

On the first day (Aug 10), we hiked in to Gimli camp and hunkered down as the clouds and wind swirled around us and periodic showers came down.

 

On the second day (Aug 11), we woke up to clearer skies and got up to climb Gimli (S Ridge, 5.10a, 7p). Clouds rolled in in the afternoon, and we climbed into the mists high on the S ridge until it cleared up again. We then returned to camp and packed everything up, and hiked over the Gimli-Niselheim col down into the Mulvey Lakes basin, where we set camp. This basin is absolutely beautiful, rivalling the Enchantments basin. The descent from Gimli is an extremely well cairned class 3 down scramble, luxury!

 

Day three (Aug 12), we climbed the SW ridge of Asgard (5.7, 5p). Asgard has multiple climbs on solid rock on its south face, but the south ridge offered more of a rest day after doing Gimli the day before. The views from Asgard offer the best position to see the Valhallas range. We got back to camp early and enjoyed the lake. Beta on this route is limited so here's a bit:

- Start by scrambling up slabs to the col below the SW ridge of Asgard. These are unprotectable near the beginning but fairly secure class 3-4 climbing.

- Climb up the crest for a short bit (~10-20m) and then turn left of the crest into a deep dihedral / shallow gully that parallels the crest just on the left. Climb up this feature for ~ 2 pitches, then exit right onto the crest when it becomes easy to do so.

- Climb 1 more easy pitch up the crest and then scramble to the summit.

I'm not actually sure where the 5.7 climbing was on this route, it mostly felt 4th - low 5th. There might have been an occasional move that could be called 5.7 but there was definitely never any sustained 5.7 climbing.

 

Day four (Aug 13), we packed up camp and headed back up to the Gimli-Niselheim col, from which we quickly climbed Niselheim NE Ridge (5.7, 4p). The first two pitches had some wickedly exposed 5.7 moves with adequate but not abundant protection. Heady! Descending the other ridge of Niselheim involved some careful class 4 downclimbing, and at one point we set a rappel for a section we didn't want to down climb. From there, we headed back to the car, a mere 1 hour down the trail from Gimli camp.

 

See my entire set of photos here:

https://goo.gl/photos/eRzNgW79v4QJUV617

 

Gimli highlights

 

Route:

0a1.jpg

About to head off to climb:

2108.JPG

Me belaying Lisa up P1, another party waiting to follow:

457.jpg

Lisa leading up into the clouds on P5:

541.jpg

Looking back down from P5:

640.jpg

Following Lisa up the crest:

728.jpg

Me after having just pulled the roof:

829.jpg

Looking back down from above the roof as Lisa belays me on P6:

934.jpg

Summit pano:

1149.jpg

Heading down into the basin, Gimli behind:

1226.jpg

Rainbows beside Gimli over basin:

1326.jpg

 

Asgard highlights

 

View of Asgard as we descend into the basin:

1424.jpg

Start Asgard by scrambling up the slabs:

0b.jpg

Looking back at the basin from the start of the slabs:

1527.jpg

Looking down P1:

1626.jpg

Scruffy corner climbing up P3:

1720.jpg

Nice views from the top as we start the descent:

1818.jpg

View of Gladsheim and Dag:

1917.jpg

Back to camp early, time to practice our alpine urgency:

2012.jpg

 

Niselheim highlights

 

Taking star photos that night, before we headed up Niselheim (right) in the morning:

2311.JPG

Stars over Asgard, even got one of the meteors from the Perseids:

2414.JPG

Exposed 5.7 climbing near start of Niselheim:

2115.jpg

Niselheim summit views:

2214.jpg

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Rock gear, all used extensively:

Cams - Singles: 0.1-0.4, #3, Doubles: 0.5-2

Nuts - one set

Slings - 13

 

We also brought ice axes and crampons. Never used the crampons, but we did take out the ice axes for the snow just below the Gimli-Niselheim col. It's low angle and we could definitely have done without them, but since we had them they were nice to have in hand. Approach shoes are sufficient.

 

Approach Notes:

Approaches are always so nice and easy in other places compared to the Cascades. 1.5 hours up beautiful trail to Gimli camp. A quick tromp across a well cairned boulder field up to the Gimli-Niselheim col. A steel cable is bolted to the mountain side for the couple barely exposed moves coming down from the col to get to the snow towards the Mulvey lakes basin. The basin is wide open, no bushwhacking to get around to anywhere.

Edited by ilias

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

are they really calling that 10a now? ok

 

I like your star photos

 

its fer sure a nice area but such a long drive from anything else, it will always been a place for road tripping..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
are they really calling that 10a now? ok

 

Yep that seems to be the consensus. The route is mostly 5.8 and used to be rated 5.8+ but the roof move is definitely 10a and I guess standard practice is to rate things by the individual hardest move. The move protects really well though and also you can pull through it on gear so you don't need to be a 5.10a leader to climb this route.

 

I found the first pitch to be more difficult than the roof pitch, as it is very sustained 5.8/5.8+ climbing.

Edited by ilias

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I found the first pitch to be more difficult than the roof pitch, as it is very sustained 5.8/5.8+ climbing.

 

truth there!

very cool photos.

 

But Alex, Lisa would be a much more pleasant climbing partner than me! :)

maybe I should have sunbathed in my undies?

Edited by genepires

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great shots! This area looks unreal.

 

Totally agree with your comment that climbing in the Cascades makes all the other approaches seem chill in comparison!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! Yes! So beautiful!!! Those peaks has such wild angles and inspiring names. This has been on the list for three years, some day I'll get out there. Looks like you guys had a super fun trip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I've gathered in the last 5 minutes, everyone on on CC.com (except me) goes climbing in beautiful stunning locations with beautiful people. That is pretty awesome, I'm actually super happy for you. Jealous..but happy for you! Thanks for the TR...this is awesome stuff that I think I could actually pull off, so super inspiring.

 

Thanks for the TR.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wow! Yes! So beautiful!!! Those peaks has such wild angles and inspiring names. This has been on the list for three years, some day I'll get out there. Looks like you guys had a super fun trip

 

Hah yep this one's been on all our lists since our first Bugs/Sir Donald trip :) Jealous of your plans this weekend! Crush it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome! I've climbed Gimli but have wanted to check out some other climbs for years. How was the approach road? Last time I heard, it was closed...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awesome! I've climbed Gimli but have wanted to check out some other climbs for years. How was the approach road? Last time I heard, it was closed...

 

Was open to the trailhead and in great shape. There's a boulder on the road not far from the end but anything besides an absurdly huge truck would make it around it fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×