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[TR] Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 8/13/2016

Gabe O.

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Trip: Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys


Date: 8/13/2016


Trip Report:

We climbed the Fisher Chimneys over 2 days (13th-14th).


First day hiked past Lake Ann and scrambled to top of chimneys.

We were lucky to have a dirty boot path on snow marking the entrance to the chimneys. This probably won't be there for too much longer.


Roped up and placed pickets for Winnie's Slide (probably unnecessary) - still very snowy.

We camped above the entrance to upper Curtis (south-west).


The entrance to Upper Curtis was melted out and icy. It's not terribly steep and we saw people cross this section in many ways (no rope 1 or 2 tools, guide lowering 3 climbers off ice screws, roped up no protection etc.) We ended up just scrambling rock (3rd class) on the left side up to a flat snowy section where we roped up.


Hell's Highway is steep but snowy - placed pickets but probably more for peace of mind than out of necessity.


Sulphide to summit block is direct and obvious. It does cross a section with several sags that will probably turn into open crevasses before long but I have no doubt there will continue to be a route through.


Summit block gully was dry except for a large patch of snow 1/4 way up. We used crampons on ascent (~8am) and none on descent (~9:30am).


We rapped once on descent from summit block (midway down) on my 30m rope and twice descending chimneys



- ~6 hours trailhead to camp

- ~3 hours camp to summit

- ~3 hours summit to camp

- ~4.5 hours camp to trailhead


Wouldn't say we were moving particularly fast at any point (except maybe last couple miles back to car).


GPS track here: https://www.gaiagps.com/datasummary/track/4d19be3a4ec964ed695716503aa5ec20/





Entrance to Upper Curtis:



Hell's Highway:







Gear Notes:


Ice Axe

Ice Tool


Ice screws (not used)

30m rope (rappelled 3 times)


Approach Notes:

Obvious Trail

Edited by Gabe O.
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