dougd Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) Trip: Southern Pickets - Mt Triumph NE Ridge Date: 7/27/2016 Trip Report: Will and I climbed the NE Ridge of Mt Triumph last week. We started out at the Thornton Lake TH early morning of the 27th, spent the night at the ridge bivy site, summited on the 28th, made it to the col late that day so put in a second night there with the swarms of mosquitos then hiked back out next morning to the trailhead. I'd been looking for a partner for this climb for a while, unsuccessfully, until I contacted Will (WPH), who posted in the partners forum not only some pretty stellar credentials, but that he would climb with anyone who was reasonably responsible, and not a jerk. I thought I might fit the bill. I have other issues however. Age being one, and some health issues I won't bore you with. We talked about these and he was undaunted. He was stoked to do this climb so we agreed to meet up to do the South Face of Ingalls N Peak in the Stuart range as a shake down climb. That went well and we agreed to attempt Triumph upon the arrival of the next good weather window for the area. We took longer on this climb than some. I take responsibility for this without apology. It was damn decent of Will to ropegun me up both these climbs, carrying rope and rack. We had not met before, and 39 years of age separate us, which makes for a pretty unique experience and I think we both really enjoyed it. He's the real deal, highly skilled, smart, safe, amiable, and is ready to go anytime. I hope this TR helps him find younger partners for future climbs. I hiked up Goodell Cr last year. Spent the night just below the col and stared at Triumph for a few hours. I was trying to quit climbing then, the pain had gotten to be too much. Couldn't I just get better at suffering? Looking at that ridge, I fell in love, and off the wagon... It's probably time to give Alpinist's anonymous a call... From the col. Snowfield is still pretty full. Here's Will about halfway across. And a look back to the col from the ridge proper. There's some steep bits to traverse getting down off the col to the lower part of the snowfield but not too bad. Ridge bivy was as advertised. I was glad to sleep in my harness tied off to this sweet chunk of rock. Will got the lower berth... A couple pics from high on the route: Summit view second to none The happy old man with a bad case of helmet hair: Will on one of the first of many spectacular rappels.. Upon arriving back at the trailhead I had the good fortune to meet Bill Trippett, proud Father of David Trippett. I did not know Dave but it was heart warming to hear the stories Bill shared with me. Thanks Bill. Final thanks to Will, and to all here who have contributed beta on this wonderful climb and many others, some of which I hope to enjoy in the future. Think I'll hold off a while longer before calling AA... d Gear Notes: Our 60 meter rope was a tad short on two of the rappels. Ice axe, crampons and rock shoes were nice to have... Approach Notes: The walk in to the col is virtually snow free and accessing the ridge is still pretty easy. Large moats are forming though at the transition to the initial gully to gain the ridge proper. Edited August 2, 2016 by dougd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Thanks Doug, that's a fine climb that I'm glad you got to experience. One of the very best that the North Cascades has to offer. David was quite the man, and is sorely missed: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1068512/1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougd Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 Yes Jason it was Bill Trippett I met. And his beautiful chocolate lab Maisy. Hope I spelled her name right! d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 least ya still have some hair to get helmet hair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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