Beau Skalley Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge Date: 7/7/2016 Trip Report: My partner and I went up the North Ridge of Baker on July 2nd in great conditions. We had mild temps with barely any wind and full Sun. We started from the car at 3:45 and were on the glacier by sunrise which was about 5/5:15. Once on the glacier, we found that the navigation was involved, yet not too demanding. There were a few crevasse crossings that appeared as though they were going to be gone in the coming days. We took the steeper variation to gain the north ridge, and I was really glad we did! The snow was firm and we were able to ascend this section in a very short time. The small rock band in the middle of this section appeared as though it was melting out but would be there for some time still. Once at the defining ice wall, we chose a variation far to the left. The ice was a bit rotten but the angle was such that it made for fun, easier climbing. Nothing harder than WI2 maybe WI3 with one "hanging" belay. Once over the main ice section, it was perfect neve until the final serac gaurding the summit dome. We chose a route a little right of an existing path made a few days prior by another party. This involved some very easy ice followed by firm and exposed neve. From There, an easy jaunt to the true summit. The descent was a slog as the snow had turned to soup in the sun which resulted in us post-holing just about every step. Overall, we went car to car in 14 hours and thoroughly enjoyed the route. It's as good as everyone says! Gear Notes: 3 pickets, 6 screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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