Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
pugetgold

[TR] Sherpa Peak - North Ridge 6/26/2016

Recommended Posts

Trip: Sherpa Peak - North Ridge

 

Date: 6/26/2016

 

Trip Report:

Climbed North Ridge of Sherpa over two days, Sat/Sunday June 25/26 in mild sunny conditions. Route was mostly snow-free (and existing snow can be easily traversed or avoided with no need for axe or, at least when warm, crampons either). A great wild, alpine climb.

 

We mostly followed Jim Nelson's description in Selected Climbs vol II, plus Matt Lemke's trip report. Gaining the ridge at about 7,200 was, for us, a couple pitches of 5.7 climbing, seemingly harder than Nelson has it, though consistent with Beckey who says that two pitches of 5th-class are needed to gain the ridge. We also encountered a couple other mid-to-5.7-ish moves between here and the major notch, and though route-finding was rarely obvious, it was almost always fun. A few snowfields are persisting on lower angle terrain, but they can either be skirted (via moats) or stepped across without difficulty. There was no snow on the technical portions of the climb.

 

We followed descent as in Matt Lemke's trip report, which was spot on for the southeasterly descending traverse, but thankfully for us, we had perfect plunge-stepping from Sherpa pass (~7050 ft) back down to 5800'.

 

Times were as follows:

 

Sat 3:00 pm- left Stuart Lake trailhead

Sat 6:15 pm - Arrived at camp (fantastic flat sandy site on bench at about 5800', just downstream and 50' above moraine in upper basin of Mountaineers creek)

Sun 7:00 am - left camp

Sun 3:30 pm - summit (20 min)

Sun 7:00 pm - back at camp

Sun 10:00 pm - back at car

 

 

Approach notes:

There is a fairly well trodden path between the Stuart Lake trail and the upper basin of Mountaineers creek, but it can be hard to follow due to considerable dead-fall. In general, after leaving the Stuart Lake trail at that trail's first switchback, crossing the creek, and avoiding the swamp, it closely follows the west bank of Mountaineers Creek all the way to the talus field below the upper basin that starts at around 5,400'. The east bank may look tempting at times, but it becomes more brush higher up and the trail on the west bank is far faster. Having lost the trail early on way up, and staying mostly on it on descent, we can say it's worth the little bit of time it takes to stay on it, because it is much faster going (saved us roughly 30 min. on descent).

 

 

Gear Notes:

About ten cams up to 3". A set of nuts and a couple hexes (1", 2") for good measure. Ice axe (used) and crampons (did not use).

 

Approximate route:

Sherpa_route.jpg

 

 

En route:

IMG_4148_light.jpg

Edited by pugetgold

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×