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PuckerJunkie

[TR] Mt. Hood - Reid Headwall 6/25/2016

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Trip Report:

Been canvassing for partners on cc.com and got lucky with Michael (@Mikhail). We took a shot at Reid HW betting that recent weather would leave us some ice in the gullies. I have been told that this late in the season they might be empty. Turns out, they were all full of snow.

 

We had a great day of forgiving snow conditions. A fun ice step variation at the top of the first gully spiced things up for us!

 

We met up at T-line around midnight on Saturday morning and embarked on our SS slog up to the saddle. We descended onto the Reid around daybreak. Schrund was mostly closed. The crevasse under Leutholds was only slightly open.

 

4_40_saddle.jpg

 

Coming up on the schrund, the mountain cast an amazing shadow in the early morning light.

 

5_20_shadow.jpg

 

Michael leads the schrund crossing. There was a massive snow bridge right in the middle requiring only a step-over where it was breaking away.

 

5_30_Michael_leading_schrund.jpg

 

Heading up above the schrund, the first gully looms to the left.

 

6_00_Alex_approaching_gully_1.JPG

 

Stoked to be on steep snow!

 

6_15_Michael_under_gully_1.jpg

 

Michael coming up the first gully. Pretty sure I wasn't supposed to post this one lest his wife see it. Sorry.

 

6_25_Michael_in_gully_1.jpg

 

No ice in the lower part of the first gully; however at the top, we came to this 50' AI4 step to the right. We brought the pro, so we decided to have a go at it. Not sure if these placements would have blown, but the picket we placed as an anchor would have stopped a freight train. This step can be skipped by staying on the snow to the left of this rock bulge. Mad props to my partner for following this in glacier crampons and leashed BD venoms, old school what what!

 

7_20_Alex_gully_1_lead.png

 

Traversing over the snow rib.

 

8_00_Michael_traversing_under_gully_1.jpg

 

Michael under the second gully.

 

8_40_Michael_approaching_gully_1.jpg

 

The second gully was full of snow. The last time I was here, we had a WI3/4 step at the top, this time just short 20' AI2/3 somewhere in the middle.

 

9_10_Alex_entering_gully_2.JPG

 

The last short gully was maybe 50' of AI3+ and rimy at the top.

 

9_40_gully_3.jpg

 

10_20_Alex_in_gully_3.JPG

 

Summit, so metal!

 

12_00_summit_pic.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

 

We used 5 or so screws and one picket to protect the ice step.

Edited by PuckerJunkie

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