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[TR] Mt Hood - Devils Kitchen - Right Variation 6/12/2016

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Trip: Mt Hood - Devils Kitchen - Right Variation


Date: 6/12/2016


Trip Report:

Some other plans got cancelled this past weekend. So for a last minute adventure, I figured Hood was a pretty doable objective since I had already climbed the south side twice. Last minute also meant that I wasn't able to find a partner, so this would be my first solo climb as well.


I initially planned to take the left variation through DKH, but I chickened out and opted for the more mellow right variation. The gully was mostly 50+ degree snow and ice with two AI2 "steps." I was surprised by how much solid ice there was in the gully which helped make this section go quickly and smoothly.


I haven't seen many reports on this route, so I didn't realize that after topping out on the ridge I would have another obstacle to overcome. There's some exposed climbing and traversing through some cliffs that overlook the wyeast face and newton-clark glacier. This section really got my nerves going and I forgot to take pictures until after I got back to crater rock. Luckily the conditions were solid so I could focus on not freaking out. After the traversing it was relatively easy climbing up a gully to the summit ridge.


I had been contemplating soloing a technical route since the winter started and never got the nerve, so I'm glad the last minute cancelled plans and good weather forced my hand. It was quite liberating to climb alone at my own pace and it made my climbing more focused and cerebral.




Back at the car, this raven kept me company while I ate breakfast and celebrated with a beer. It may have just been interested in my burrito though



Gear Notes:

Brought 2 ice screws and 1 picket but didn't place anything


2 poles to crater rock

2 tools to the top



Approach Notes:

Left Timberline at 1am

Crater Rock at 4

Summit at 5:30

Back to car by 8

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When you say right variation, do you mean this gully?



If so, does the route split under that inside tower? Did you go straight up/right, or does the route cut left and out of sight in this pic?

Edited by PuckerJunkie

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I was actually further right, 1e in the Oregon High description. I didn't get a great look at the gully you're describing (1d), but the commonly referred to left variation (1c) seemed to go with a solid and pretty long vertical ice step just past the entrance.


Just as an fyi for those interested in these routes. I think anything right of 1c will put you on the ridge below the gendarme and require you to climb through the cliffs I described. The cliffs were definitely the crux of the route with some decent exposure and narrow snow/ice sections (see last picture).





Edited by bluto

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Aaaah, got it. Great pic, btw! That last bit looks pretty sweet! I am gonna put that on my list for the next time I can't find a partner.


Would you agree that heading straight up/right in 1d puts you right at the beginning of your red line?


I went up that ice step in 1c about 2 weeks ago. I wouldn't have soloed that either. Though I'm sure there are some wingnuts that would.

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The cliffs you are referring to (and in particular the traverse) is more commonly known as the Wy'east crux. Although I must admit I don't fully recognize the pic, I'm more familiar with it in winter conditions. I didn't realize it would melt out quite that much this early with so much rock visible.


Heading up anything between 1d all the way around to the Wy'east route all will send you through the Wy'east crux.


There is a way to split right off of 1c but depending on conditions it cliffs you out and you would have to rap and then join the red line up ahead out of sight in the mellow gully. The split is after where the 1c crux steps form.


Thanks for the TR and pics! Way to get out there and do something a little different!

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Pucker, I think straight up/right in 1d would spit you out at the bottom of the broad snow slope below my red line maybe 100 feet or so. I think the left variation in 1d would get you to the start of my red line (assuming that goes through).

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