pugetgold Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 (edited) Trip: Mt. Shuksan - North Face Date: 6/5/2016 Trip Report: The route was in good shape. With overnight temps on the route in the mid to upper 40s (but clear), the snow was just firm enough for good step-kicking. Any softer and it would have been too loose and largely unprotectable. We started the base of the North Face at 4:30 am, 30 min before sunrise, and reached the broad col at top of north face at 8:00 am. At this date, once the sun came up we were in sun almost the entire way. Aim for a colder night! There was a narrow snow bridge spanning a crevasse at about 7,000 feet, above the first icefall. After it melts, parties may be able to swing wide left to get around it, though we did not investigate this option. Gear Notes: We took 6 pickets and placed one, just below one steep section of soft snow on the north face. Approach Notes: The approach from the White Salmon ski lodge to the basin immediately below the White Salmon glacier is almost snow-free, making for an arduous 5+ hour bushwack each way. Going with more snow coverage would make for much easier travel, or traversing much higher on open slopes as in Steph Abegg's detailed trip report. Edited June 6, 2016 by pugetgold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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