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[TR] Mount Hood - Dreadful Goat - Castle Crags 5/13/2016

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Trip: Mount Hood - Dreadful Goat - Castle Crags


Date: 5/13/2016


Trip Report:

I first noticed this line during the 2014/15 climbing season and actually went back scouting and attempting it several times over several weeks to no avail. I am familiar with the Reid cirque and Hood in general and could not find any published information on this line.


I was glad it came back in good condition this year and Chris and I were able to climb through it. (I'm glad Chris joined me on this trip because he had come out with me on an attempt last season as well) It was most certainly engaging from the approach slope all the way through to the exit.


Now that we climbed through it and were able to track it, we could see how it related to the neighboring variations that have been outlined and published. I also sought the impressions and historical knowledge of this area and Hood itself from regional climbing veteran Wayne Wallace and author of Oregon High Jeff Thomas. It is true, that there are published variations of Castle Crags and our top-out and exit overlap with 2 routes. I was aware of this. This area had been explored quite a bit in the past.


The Dreadful Goat variation is a steep ice gully that offers access to the upper slopes and ridge crest from the Reid glacier. It is significant enough of a variation to be outlined. You will recognize the line clearly in Oregon High, MT Hood Climbers guide and various internet sites, but not identified.


This TR is to share our experience of what was a great alpine adventure not too far from home. Expect 2 pitches of steep alpine ice leading to steep snow. This line takes you directly to the base of a rimed headwall and traverses left in hopes of finding suitable access to the ridge crest itself. The terrain is steep. Access to the ridge crest included impossibly steep snow transitioning to rime. Once topped out and assessed the conditions. Decided to re-rig an old piton, reinforce tat and rappel back down. We then continued to traverse left for a couple more rope lengths and an exit just beyond the towers.


Dreadful Goat variation - Castle Crags AI4, Steep Snow, Rime Ice 1000' (9300' - 10200'(ridge crest) 10300'(exit).


Some pics.


Dreadful Goat variation is on the right with the Reid HW and other Castle Crags entrance gullies left and center.





Couldn't rotate it. Oops.





Have a few more pics, but gotta rotate them proper first.

Sorry, no pics of the crest. Focused on how to rig a secure rappel.


Gear Notes:

2 tools, ice screws, pickets, pitons, extra webbing, maybe a light alpine rock rack if more rock exposed on the ridge.


Approach Notes:

From Illuminatiion Saddle drop down onto the Reid glacier. Once you round the lower buttress of the Castle Crags formation you will see it if it is in.

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Too drunk to have a full grasp of what the fuck I'm looking at... but good job doing something unusual




In all my dozens of Hood forays, I never did get on ye ol castley craglies. Seems like you gotta catch 'em in perfect conditions though.... whch you appear to have!

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