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StreetBoss

Mazama Rappelling Accident

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Just heard there was a rappelling accident over in Mazama yesterday. The first reports are the rappel knot untied. No judgment or speculation on my part, just wanting to know the details to better equip myself.

 

Be safe - climb your ass off - have fun

 

Edited by StreetBoss

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jesus christ i hate hearing this - i exclusively use the euro death knot and always make a point of leaving long, long tails (and trying like hell not to rig the rap up on the tails afterwards :) )

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i exclusively use the euro death knot and always make a point of leaving long, long tails

I do too and I still am not comfortable rapping on tied ropes. Even an EDK has been known to roll. Some good info here...

EDK knot testing

Instant Death Knot - the Figure Eight

 

I HATE continually hearing of rapping accidents. So sad and so tragic.

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There is no need for tails long enough to confuse the rap side and tail side of an EDK. It shortens how far you can rappel and adds another thing you can fuck up. I've heard a friend setting up to rappel on the wrong side because they left 5' tails but catching it before weighting the system.

 

18" is fine and leaves enough tail for the knot to roll a couple times. If you look at the data all of the properly tensioned and dressed EDK's didn't roll until about 1000lbs or more even when wet. That's 1000lbs on the knot side which means at least 2000lbs on the entire system.

Edited by RaisedByPikas

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