Mazama Rappelling Accident

[StreetBoss]

Just heard there was a rappelling accident over in Mazama yesterday. The first reports are the rappel knot untied. No judgment or speculation on my part, just wanting to know the details to better equip myself.

 

Be safe - climb your ass off - have fun

 

Edited May 4, 2016 by StreetBoss

[StreetBoss]

Here is the link - http://methowvalleynews.com/2016/05/04/climber-dies-in-fall-at-mazama/

 

Double check your set ups.

[ivan]

jesus christ i hate hearing this - i exclusively use the euro death knot and always make a point of leaving long, long tails (and trying like hell not to rig the rap up on the tails afterwards )

[pcg]

i exclusively use the euro death knot and always make a point of leaving long, long tails

I do too and I still am not comfortable rapping on tied ropes. Even an EDK has been known to roll. Some good info here...

EDK knot testing

Instant Death Knot - the Figure Eight

 

I HATE continually hearing of rapping accidents. So sad and so tragic.

[RaisedByPikas]

There is no need for tails long enough to confuse the rap side and tail side of an EDK. It shortens how far you can rappel and adds another thing you can fuck up. I've heard a friend setting up to rappel on the wrong side because they left 5' tails but catching it before weighting the system.

 

18" is fine and leaves enough tail for the knot to roll a couple times. If you look at the data all of the properly tensioned and dressed EDK's didn't roll until about 1000lbs or more even when wet. That's 1000lbs on the knot side which means at least 2000lbs on the entire system.

Edited May 6, 2016 by RaisedByPikas

[Airyourmomma]

That's so sad, I would hate to have been one of the two climbers left behind. I did MIR last Friday, great route. It can be rapped safely with a single 70 but I totally understand the impulse to use a double and speed things up. Especially with a group of three.

 

So sorry for the family/friends' loss. 

 

Climb on, my man. 

[JBo6]

Strange timing to see this bumped back up.  The navy was doing a helo rescue in Mazama a few nights ago, so I expected to see some news from that incident.  No word on what happened.

[Bronco]

I'm seeing the 2016 accident get bumped elsewhere on social media from folks looking for info on Sunday's accident.  

[astrov]

<deleted>

Edited September 22, 2023 by astrov

[JBo6]

The Methow Valley News had a brief article in print.  It was a rappelling accident on the Methow Inspiration route on Sunday and was a young guide from NW Alpine Guides.  

[Bronco]

Not much detail but here's a link to the article for those who are interested.  RIP

https://methowvalleynews.com/2023/09/21/climbing-accident-claims-life-of-alabama-man/

 

 

[JasonG]

Damn. A good reminder to always check your systems.