Jump to content

[TR] Dragontail Peak - North Buttress Direct "Iceline Bling" WI5+ M4 (FA) 4/3/2016


JeffreyW
 Share

Recommended Posts

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Direct North Buttress "Iceline Bling" WI5+ M4 (FA)

 

Date: 4/3/2016

 

Trip Report:

Climbers:

Priti Wright-led 1st pitch (WI4)

Jeff Wright-led 2nd pitch (WI4) (scribe/photos)

Craig Pope-led crux 4th pitch (WI5+ M4) (photos)

 

Went up to Dragontail Peak looking for some new ice! Camped at Colchuck Lake and got the bino's out. We spotted a nice-looking line just climber's left of Dragontail's toe. Ended up being 5 pitches (most were 60m) with 2 sustained pitches of WI4 and one thin crux pitch of WI5+ M4. After the crux pitch, easy snow leads to the first couloir of Triple Couloirs just below The Runnels. Super fun route! We've done lots of research and found no evidence that this line has been climbed. If anybody *knows* that this line has in fact been climbed before, please *respectfully* leave a note (with evidence, if possible), and we will definitely correct this TR. Thanks!

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_11_32_PM1.png

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_11_44_PM.png

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_11_55_PM.png

 

DSC001264.jpg

Priti leading up the first pitch (WI4)

 

DSC001311.jpg

Following, higher up on the first pitch

 

IMG_8695.jpg

Jeff leading up the second pitch (WI4)

 

DSC00133.jpg

Craig and Priti following the second pitch

 

DSC00134.jpg

Craig moving the belay on easy snow (P3) to the base of the crux pitch

 

DSC00141.jpg

Happy Jeff

 

DSC001491.jpg

Priti following the gnar on the crux pitch (P4, WI5+ M4)

 

DSC001521.jpg

Craig on an outcrop where "Iceline Bling" meets Triple Couloirs

 

 

Gear Notes:

Took rock pro and pitons pretty well. 6 screws (10cm, 13cm), small alpine rock rack, KBs, Spectre

 

Approach Notes:

No snow on Eightmile Rd 3/4 of the way

Edited by JeffreyW
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 14
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That is a great looking line up an awesome peak. Good job on seeking out the new-new and getting something done as ephemeral and technical looking as that.

 

But...

 

WI5+?

 

I have seen Craig Pope's photos and he is obviously a very talented climber and has way more mileage on ice climbs than I do, and compared to him I should not judge what grade he has put on the pitch, and the photos may not show the entire pitch...

 

Shouldn't WI5 be a sustained vertical pitch that runs for a long distance?

 

Not trying to be a hater, I swear, this mostly comes from my winter spent out ice climbing in NH this season, I witnessed many climbs on WI5 and 6 terrain that were truly mind blowing, only to be told by locals that it barely qualified.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shouldn't WI5 be a sustained vertical pitch that runs for a long distance?

Depends on how one grades it, if one grades it strictly based on steepness then yes WI5's must be almost completely vertical. But in many cases the quality of ice, and strenuous natural of the climb Is factored into the grading. This climb would definitely fall into this category , if it doesn't meet the vertical requirement.

Edited by cakeo48
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...