Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
JeffreyW

[TR] Colchuck Peak - Holsten-Hilden (new link-up?) 4/17/2016

Recommended Posts

Trip: Colchuck Peak - Holsten-Hilden (new link-up?)

 

Date: 4/17/2016

 

Trip Report:

Climbers:

Jeff Wright (scribe/photos)

Priti Wright (photos)

 

Spent 3 glorious weekends on Colchuck Lake in April climbing ice.

 

While climbing Gerber-Sink the previous weekend we spotted this sweet ice line on the NE Face of Colchuck between the North Buttress Couloir and the NE Couloir (commonly incorrectly referred to as NE Buttress Couloir). It connected to an upper snowfield to the North Buttress. The following week, we scoured our books and the web if it had been climbed, and no sign of any activity... ever! Stoked on our potential first ascent, we went back to Colchuck Lake for the 3rd weekend. From the trail, we could see that the upper snowfield had an easy snow gully to get up onto the North Buttress. From there we could hopefully traverse out onto the NW Face to the summit. Everything was spectacular. Great ice! Turns out it's really fun to climb with no beta sheet and no beta.

 

The 2 lower ice pitches were 2 sustained 60m pitches of AI3+, the snowfield was cruiser, the snow gully exit onto the North Buttress was a non-event, the traverse onto the NW Face was cautious but straightforward (with less snow, it could be tricky mixed climbing), and the staircase to the summit on the NW Face (connecting to the North Buttress Couloir route) was exposed, fun steep snow. Descended via normal, East Route.

 

After the climb, we asked Jens Holsten if he knew if it had been climbed, and in fact he and Dan Hilden climbed the 2 lower pitches in 2011 but then veered left onto hard mixed terrain to the summit (instead of the snowfield we took to the North Buttress). Their report is here:

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1011755

 

Perhaps this is a new linkup? If you can't climb M6, but are looking for AI3-4 ice, and Gerber-Sink is packed, then this is a really fun, cruiser, elegant line with sustained ice. Alternatively, you could just climb the first 120m of ice and bail. It will likely consistently come in, so look for it next year!

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_13_38_PM1.png

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_13_05_PM.png

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_12_53_PM.png

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_12_12_PM.png

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-26_at_9_11_32_PM.png

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-25_at_9_57_43_PM.png

 

DSC003041.jpg

Approaching the base

 

 

DSC00309.jpg

First pitch

 

DSC003101.jpg

Second pitch

 

DSC003142.jpg

Higher up on the Second pitch. Lots of great options. We went right around the corner.

 

DSC003162.jpg

The upper snowfield

 

DSC00318.jpg

Near the top of the upper snowfield. The exit snow gully is visible leading to the North Buttress

 

DSC00351.jpg

 

DSC00331.jpg

 

Screen_Shot_2016-04-25_at_9_59_49_PM.png

 

DSC00344.jpg

Colchuck Col, Dragontail Peak, and Pandora's Box

 

 

Gear Notes:

2 stubby's, 6x 10cm screws, 3 KB's, 1 picket. You can probably unrope at the base of the upper snowfield. Route does not take rock pro well (flared cracks).

 

Approach Notes:

Snow on road from last bridge to trailhead (approx the last 1/4). Likely no more snow on the road. Colchuck Lake Trail. Up towards Colchuck Col, head up to the moraine and continue directly to the base (don't follow the moraine).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×