[TR] Mt Hood - Reid Headwall 3/19/2016

[bedellympian]

Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Headwall

 

Date: 3/19/2016

 

Trip Report:

Solo'd Reid on Sat the 19th. Decent skiing snow above Palmer made for potentially more work to hike around but there was already a boot pack from two guys climbing Leutholds (thanks guys!). I mostly followed the "recommended" variation (14 in Oregon High, 8a in the new Mt Hood guide).

 

Conditions observations:

-The schrund was barely visible, a whopping 6" step across.

-Bottom half of the route was not terrible post-holing but not perfect neve either (you are welcome for the boot pack).

-Upper half once you traverse left around the snow rib was awesome neve most of the way, lots of hero swings to the hilt.

-Any "steps" were so filled in that there was nothing above 50deg angle the whole way. As a result I made a couple detours to make things more fun.

 

Detours:

-Above the schrund the gully turns left. The cliff band on the right has a fun but short vertical-ish rime gully with some actual WI in the back. Probably WI3ish, I was able to stem out on rime to either side which made it pretty mellow. Recommended.

-On the upper headwall I followed the gully until I saw a mini rime slot up on the left. It was small and cramped in a Harding Slot kinda way. Not recommended.

-At what looks like you're near the top is a big rime cave to the right. It lead to a couple of body length steps. Thin ice on the first and with easy "mixed" moves. The second was rime covered but still easy. Recommended.

 

Overall, route is definitely "in" but very easy. Finding variations makes it more fun if you want to do some real climbing.

 

Ran into a guy who solo'd Devils Kitchen left variation on the summit. He said it was also incredibly mellow right now. Depending on the spring I think it might be a great year to snag steep routes in easy condition. What do ye old spray-lords think?

 

Total time car-car 6:45... definitely a little tired and not pushing things. A fit and dialed climber could do this leisurely in under 5 hrs.

 

Gear Notes:

Pickets? Might get some screws if you dig around, especially higher up.

 

Approach Notes:

Follow the boot pack or bring skis if you want to enjoy the descent.