salbrecher Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 What are the chances of a hook or the like popping off of the placed nubbin or ledge and wapping you in your mouth. perhaps knocking out teeth? Seems like a real possibility to me, but then I don't aid climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwayner Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 Dude! What really sucks is when the hook pops and catches your lower lip! (see a picture of me below, taken after I reached the ground.) Â Â Here's a true story: back when I wuz in college, my roommate bought these new, hip, devices made by Chouinard for the furtherance of clean climbing in tiny cracks. They were called "Crack'n-ups" and they looked like little ship's anchors with thin blades on the flukes (two different sizes) and a stem with a hole for webbing or a carabiner. Roommate was climbing Narrow Arrow Overhang at Index and slapped a Crack'n-up in an old knifeblade crack. It held him...for a brief moment...before popping out and sending one blade of the crack n'up deep into the palm of his hand. (he was probably protecting his face from a potential "fly-out"). Some people aid climb with plastic glasses, i.e. eye helmets. Â - Dwayner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 I got nailed in the cheek by an RP that blew out of a placement once. I didn't realize it until after getting back onto the route, finishing the pitch and noticing the blood at the belay. Lesson learned: Don't look at dicey placements as you put weight on them or subsequently bounce test. It is easier said than done, but losing teeth or worse, an eye, might be the result if you don't overcome the urge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_h Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 Although bounce testing RPs is a good idea, bounce testing hooks is a bad idea. Just think weight, unweight, weight, unweight, shift shift shift, POP. I like to put my hand over the hook as I get onto it, this way it is much less likely to hit me in the face and I can also feel any movement in the placement. By holding your hand over the hook it is far less likely to hit you in the face, I find I receive many more face shots from ripping a nut out with the draw still on, once it comes out it makes a beeline straight for my helmet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 I watched a guy learning to hook on a boulder. He placed his first hook ever, then bounced just once. The hook pinged off and wacked him between the eyes. He had a nasty cut, and he wanted to know if he looked like a nerd. Â For pins or little nuts, one way to get your face out of the way is to hook a daisy (but not the rope) to the new piece. Then climb back down to the level of the previous piece. You can put enormous impact force on the new piece (since a daisy is fairly static) while practically top-roped by the last piece. This is a slow way to aid, but it can inspire confidence if you have to place 3 or 4 crappy pieces in a row. And your face is out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 Sal, A freind of mine blew ot a TCU on the Sheild and knocked his front tooth out. Best advice is to looks down when bounce testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 There was a story in one of them climbing mags a while back, by "Big Wall Pete" Takeda if DFA is not mistaken, outlining the author's first foray into the aid realm. He didn't have a helmet, but didn't really figure he needed one (he may have been roped-soloing or something; in any case, he was on the sharp end and reasoned nothing was going to get knocked off on his head), and off he went. After something like four or five hook placements popped and cracked him square on the noggin, he retreated to the Valley floor, blood pouring down his face, to rustle up a helmet. Â Quelle grande amusement! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 Although bounce testing RPs is a good idea, bounce testing hooks is a bad idea. Just think weight, unweight, weight, unweight, shift shift shift, POP. (snip) I guess I shouldn't assume that's a given. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 I got nailed in the cheek by an RP that blew out of a placement once. I didn't realize it until after getting back onto the route, finishing the pitch and noticing the blood at the belay. Lesson learned: Don't look at dicey placements as you put weight on them or subsequently bounce test. It is easier said than done, but losing teeth or worse, an eye, might be the result if you don't overcome the urge. Â It is hard to resist looking. I know not to look when bounce testing or stepping onto the piece, but for some reason I keep wanting to look to see if it's gonna shift/pop. Guess I want a second's notice if I'm gonna fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 Just wit until you get popped in the face. You wont be tempted after that. Might want to wear some sunglasses... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 Loosin' teeth ain't so bad. It adds character to your smile. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 24, 2003 Share Posted January 24, 2003 Good comments, I have been popped in the tooth with several nuts coming out but luckily no chippage as of yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 There is a story in Middendorf book on big wall climbing about a female climber having a hook pop off as she moved up on it, and it caught on her t shirt & bra and ripped it down to her waist resulting in some full frontal chest nudity. I dont know if that is true or not but its a good extra reason to look if you hear someone whippin' on aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsydian Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 Sounds like a good urban legend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejams Posted January 25, 2003 Share Posted January 25, 2003 Breaking your teeth sucks. TRUST ME ON THIS ONE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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