YocumRidge Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Trip: HOOD - North Face - Right Gull Date: 2/25/2016 Trip Report: North Face on Hoodie. It is where wolfs are real and women become men. A legit alpine route that never disappoints. Actually, it disappoints a lot. It might be fun and easy in some conditions, and hard and scary in others. My success rate on this route in winter is not great, thanks to high winds, and miserably long and sleep-deprived approach that keeps kicking my ass over and over again. Nothing new this time. The Cloud Cap road is conveniently closed and the splitboard/slow shoes approach from the Tilly Jane TH @ 3800' to the face took 7 hrs from the car. My slowest record of all. We run into a lot of deep isothermic snow below the T-line and the spindrifted powder on the Eliot and were breaking trail for eternity it seemed. Checking in at the Tilly Jane A-frame around 2 AM: Cameron on the upper Eliot gl.: Cascades panorama at sunrise: North Face from the upper Eliot gl.: Cameron at the base of the shrund: I did not bother to look for the easier options either on the right or left side cuz I am lazy, so I crossed the shrund in the center on some sketchy snowbridge: The funnel through the first ice step was producing morale-breaking micro-avalanches threatening to kill so we belayed that pitch with the usual belay on the left behind the prow. The splitboarders are stoked at the base of the first ice step: Cameron heading up the first ice step: The Sea of alpine ice higher in the gully that we simul-climbed below the second ice step: Myself heading up the second ice step. Phat. The stretch from the top of the second ice step to the summit was time-consuming: a lot of thin snice veneer over rock ready to come down at any moment. More simul-climbing to follow. The summit pyramid: The summit cornice: Finally, we crawled on to the summit: The descent down the south side was in the dark. Pearly Gates had recently spit out an ice avalanche so we went around over the hot rocks: Gear Notes: 8 screws, 1 Spectre, 2 pickets, 60 m rope Approach Notes: Tilly Jane TH, splitboard, slow shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Impressive. That looks like a lot of work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 2 nights in 1 day is 2 many Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 2 nights in 1 day is 2 many Sorry. I know. I am recovering from a heart attack though . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickM Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Yeehaw. Was looking down the North side that day - the weather was so great. Was really wondering if anyone was gonna give it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptown_Climber1 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Nice....enjoyed that little distraction form work today! Great pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pioneerian Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Great pics! Thanks for the report Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Brown Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I was pretty stoked on that climb.. Let's do it faster next time eh? Stoked I can finally login into cc.com too ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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