Jump to content

[TR] Mt. Hood - North Face - direct 11/29/2015


JeffWpdx

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face - direct

 

Date: 11/29/2015

 

Trip Report:

We climbed the North Face on Sunday Nov. 29 during the great weather window. We had done the West Gully last year and were initially hoping for the East Gully but our rather late start, beta of difficult berg crossing and expectation of others on the Face steered us toward a scoot up the Face direct. The route is between the NE Spur and East Gully routes, a seemingly logical path but I’ve not seen a TR of it.

 

The lower 2/3 is 40~45 degree slope, the upper 1/3 is 50 degree rock band terrain. We had originally planned to traverse to the East Gully lower down but that quickly became an arduous task so we aimed upward for the lower step of the Gully. Once near the Gully it became clear that a rap would be required for entry so we bailed and went straight up through the rock band. There was little to no water ice but plenty of very plastic alpine ice for great sticks and feet. The route does not lend itself to protection at all, we solo-ed the thing. Sustained calf work is required with little relief.

 

This is an alternative to the Gullies if you’re done them, and a way up the face if the berg is a monster.

 

 

Our route:

Mt_Hood_NF_direct.JPG

 

Low on the face:

Hood_NF_5.jpg

 

Higher on the face:

IMG_21592.JPG

 

Entering the rock band:

GullyHood_NF_9.jpg

 

 

 

Traversing into the East Gully

Hood_NF_10.jpg

 

Topping out:

IMG_21614.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

two good ice tools and vertical front points pons.

 

Approach Notes:

Elliot, 5 hours from Cooper Spur TH.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...