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[TR] Mt. Hood - North Face - direct 11/29/2015

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Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face - direct


Date: 11/29/2015


Trip Report:

We climbed the North Face on Sunday Nov. 29 during the great weather window. We had done the West Gully last year and were initially hoping for the East Gully but our rather late start, beta of difficult berg crossing and expectation of others on the Face steered us toward a scoot up the Face direct. The route is between the NE Spur and East Gully routes, a seemingly logical path but I’ve not seen a TR of it.


The lower 2/3 is 40~45 degree slope, the upper 1/3 is 50 degree rock band terrain. We had originally planned to traverse to the East Gully lower down but that quickly became an arduous task so we aimed upward for the lower step of the Gully. Once near the Gully it became clear that a rap would be required for entry so we bailed and went straight up through the rock band. There was little to no water ice but plenty of very plastic alpine ice for great sticks and feet. The route does not lend itself to protection at all, we solo-ed the thing. Sustained calf work is required with little relief.


This is an alternative to the Gullies if you’re done them, and a way up the face if the berg is a monster.



Our route:



Low on the face:



Higher on the face:



Entering the rock band:





Traversing into the East Gully



Topping out:



Gear Notes:

two good ice tools and vertical front points pons.


Approach Notes:

Elliot, 5 hours from Cooper Spur TH.

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Looks tiring.. Good job gettin' on it though. For posterity - you can traverse the headwall to the left gully and downclimb the first step to gain access to the right gully- i did it a couplefew years ago. Never stepped foot on the eliot that whole climb

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Rare! Thanks for the TR and pics. Helps keep the stoke alive until the weather turns back in our favor.

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Cool! Always thought that face does not get enough love. Great to see what conditions look like, thanks. The line you roughly took is an incredibly good ski route later in the year, too.

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