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Lucas Fritz

[TR] Chair Peak - North East Buttress 11/28/2015

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Trip: Chair Peak - North East Buttress

 

Date: 11/28/2015

 

Trip Report:

Thrilling time on Chair Peak! Perfect 18th birthday climb with a good friend. The early season conditions made the route fun and and committing especially being new to ice and mixed climbing.

 

Pitch one "the S shaped couloir" was great climbing, mostly mixed with neve in the middle.

IMG_03092.jpg

 

The next section before the buttress steepens we climbed in two pitches. The first was well protected. The second a offered a good cam placement 10' feet from the anchor and for the next 50 meters didn't put a piece in. Not enough snow for pickets yet.

 

The crux pitch looked like great ice right up the middle but we opted left because we don't have screws. I slung an ice pillar close to the belay and similarly to the last pitch climbed with no pro until the tree belay. Always exhilarating.

IMG_03242.jpg

 

IMG_03294.jpg

 

The rest of the route was quite mellow. Night caught us on our descent but was worth it for the stars.

 

Overall a great climb!

 

IMG_03065.jpg

 

Lucas Weyand

Matias Francis

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Cams from .3 to 1 (used)

Wired Nuts (unused)

Two pins (unused)

 

All the anchors belay anchors are pre-exhisting.

 

Approach Notes:

Noticed a layer a surface hoar on top layer which could lead to some instability with the incoming weather.

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I looked at this from afar whilst hiking up Snoqualmie with my dog on Saturday and thought, "Hmmmm, I wonder if that would go?" ... I guess so.

 

 

Good on you, nice work my friend.

 

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