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Lucas Fritz

[TR] Chair Peak - North East Buttress 11/28/2015

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Trip: Chair Peak - North East Buttress


Date: 11/28/2015


Trip Report:

Thrilling time on Chair Peak! Perfect 18th birthday climb with a good friend. The early season conditions made the route fun and and committing especially being new to ice and mixed climbing.


Pitch one "the S shaped couloir" was great climbing, mostly mixed with neve in the middle.



The next section before the buttress steepens we climbed in two pitches. The first was well protected. The second a offered a good cam placement 10' feet from the anchor and for the next 50 meters didn't put a piece in. Not enough snow for pickets yet.


The crux pitch looked like great ice right up the middle but we opted left because we don't have screws. I slung an ice pillar close to the belay and similarly to the last pitch climbed with no pro until the tree belay. Always exhilarating.





The rest of the route was quite mellow. Night caught us on our descent but was worth it for the stars.


Overall a great climb!




Lucas Weyand

Matias Francis






Gear Notes:

Cams from .3 to 1 (used)

Wired Nuts (unused)

Two pins (unused)


All the anchors belay anchors are pre-exhisting.


Approach Notes:

Noticed a layer a surface hoar on top layer which could lead to some instability with the incoming weather.

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I looked at this from afar whilst hiking up Snoqualmie with my dog on Saturday and thought, "Hmmmm, I wonder if that would go?" ... I guess so.



Good on you, nice work my friend.


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