iain Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Inspired by the previous cc.com crew heading to the DKHW, a friend and I set out Friday at 3:00am to climb Devil's Kitchen 1c (in oregon high) hoping the recent storm had filled in the bare spots that kept the previous group out. We went over to the gulley and found too much bare rock at the start, so we went back left and made up a route through a bunch of gulleys to gain "1c" again just above the bare spots. Below is a picture shred took on his trip, and I modified it w/o his permission, sorry Pat hope that's okay. The gulley variation we used took really good screws, good solid water ice, but unfortunately this was at constrictions were crap rained down on us as pro was placed and cleaned. Otherwise we used pickets. We had to traverse far right above as the sun was hitting the pinnacles above, knocking down large chunks of rime on the main line. This put us up on a pinnacle looking down on the upper parts of Wy'East. It took a fairly sketchy unprotected traverse on loose cobbles and slush/mud to get down onto snow. The traverse over to this cobbley stuff was on mashed potatoes with some stimulating exposure. The summit was windless and calm. The start of 1c variation would be very nice indeed if iced up. Will head back to try some other variations up there, but we need some more snow and it needs to cool down! Was up on some avalanche training the rest of the weekend and it's like May up there! The frick'n bergschrund is back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 how were the crowds this weekend? what sadness climbing partner moves away and i get stuck at some shitty conference when the weather's fucking beautiful! this is the last time i attempt to take on some sort of serious professional responsibilty on a weekend i'm not sure will be shitty a week in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtnHigh Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Iain, nice climb. This warm weather is really takes it's toll on Hood. Unless Winter (not Chris) arrives soon, we'll all have to find a new activity like scuba. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 how were the crowds this weekend? well there was no one climbing our "route". We had the summit to ourselves, but as we were heading down a band of mazamas was heading up to pick up gear from the snow cave of their compatriots from the previous weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 as we were heading down a band of mazamas was heading up to pick up gear from the snow cave of their compatriots from the previous weekend. what'd they stash their weed so they wouldn't be all shitfaced in front of their rescuers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 I think it was an ice axe and some other stuff. The cave was totally buried though and we had to direct them over to its location. I'd be surprised if they find the gear. Probably will have to wait for it to melt out (which should be like, oh, 2 days until there's no snow on hood again?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 Mt Hood looks like it's erupting at the moment...what do those building lenticulars mean for you and me my friends? FRESHIEZ FRESHIEZ FRESHIEZ are on the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackman Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Nice climb Iain -- a very cool line. I saw you guys up there Friday. I was taking a friend from South Africa up the SS for his first time on Hood. What a beatiful day. I kept telling him how lucky he was to get such conditions on his one and only attempt. Thought we'd meet up with you on the summit but we must have just missed you. We enjoyed the windless summit for almost an hour before heading down and running into those Mazama masses at the Hogsback. Anyway, I've got a couple pics of you guys on the lower part of the route. I can e-mail them if you'd like. I'd add em to the post but am technically challenged . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 Great to see your friend got such a nice sample of Oregon. I didn't want to leave the top. Literally t-shirt and shorts weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 well I can't seem to edit my first post, but the route in the picture is slightly off. Crackman has given me some great pictures of where we were. Here's one with the right route with us at the start. Thanks Crackman, nice pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Wow, iain, that looks incredible! Just curious, but why did you go all the way around the big tower at the top of the headwall, instead of going left where the route line first gets obscured? Duh, never mind, I reread your TR. Ice raining down and all that. Nice climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 that looks fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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