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[TR] Colchuck - NE couloir 11/29/2015

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Trip: Colchuck - NE couloir


Date: 11/29/2015


Trip Report:

Into the vertical maw we trot. Little alpine ponies, starry eyes wide open trying to look around the corners.

After a few rope-lengths we see a crux, a 20’ vertical chimney pumping gluttons of spindrift. Hacking & stemming up the thunker neve walls by thunk-vision was the trip; don’t look up or the river will fill your face & jacket right up, a life affirming blast. Then a cave/ chockstone up few more rope-lengths offered 2 bomber cams fueling the madness; reaching over the roof 2 thunker tool placements and cut loose with the feet & climb up the tool shafts ‘Yeahaaa I’m a fucking cowboy’.

This route rocks. Then it eases back into cruiser-country until the big bowl ends & the left-right choice.

Left of course. The right walls were all packing ½” of sketchy ice & reports of no gear. We want more gear.

I have never been to Alaska, but I suspect it might be a bit like these top pitches: Mixed moves on buried rock covered with plenty of unsupportive snow. Thrilling stuff, all within limits, with just enough pro to not be peeling off the mountain, but the ropes never long enough. 10/10 full value.

Tragically the lost soloist who was on the same mountain the day before, is still lost, he’s been on our minds ever since. Sincere condolences to his loved ones. We had encountered SAR at the trailhead & told them what we knew & moved on down the mountain. I think it’s fair to say that the summer crevasses on the Colchuck glacier are large & we should be roped up.

The crisp photos are Victors, the manky ones & the selfies are mine. Beer & whiskey to combat the hollows!

Jake & Victor







Gear Notes:

3 pins, 1 very thin bugaboo (most useful).

Cams: Mastercam 0 to 2, doubles in 1 (recommended). BD 05-3 (didn't use the 3 gonna stop carrying it.

Wires; Yes.

Long slings were good

Icescrews were no use.

Picket; Victor bought one along, we could have used another.


Approach Notes:

Bike to TH, forget harness, go back to L-town get new harness from LMS (massive props for re-opening th eshop for us) bike back up & hike in. Sleep @ lake



Edited by Woodcutter

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