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[TR] Mount Hood - Timberline, Old Chute 11/28/2015

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Trip: Mount Hood - Timberline, Old Chute


Date: 11/28/2015


Trip Report:

With the great weather, we decided to head to Mt. Hood since we had planned to be down in the area. It was difficult to get any information about avalanche conditions, route conditions, etc. so we figured we would just go up as high as safety permitted. We left Timberline at about 6:15 AM, with very few cars in the Timberline parking lot. About 20 minutes in, the wind started in from the North/Northeast and it was almost enough to turn us around. I estimate sustained wind near 35 mph, with gusts much higher. We did see one person turn back. After gutting it out to the top of the Palmer lift, we met two climbers who had been on Hood numerous times and let us know that generally the wind dies down once you enter the crater, so we pressed on. Fortunately they were right, and as we entered the crater area and Devil's Kitchen, the wind died down considerably. Other than the wind, conditions were pretty good for the ascent, with the snow and ice being pretty hard and easily navigated with crampons. Once in the crater, the snow was softer in several areas so we were either on ice or calf deep in snow. We spent some time below the Hogsback and decided to go across, for what would most likely be an end to our climb, as we were suffering from one damaged crampon and a lost glove. As we finished a long lunch, the two climbers were just descending from the Old Chute (they had climbed straight up the ice from the Devil's Kitchen). At the same time, a solo climber, Taylor, was just coming up the Hogsback and preparing to summit. Mike, one of the two climbers, had a strap and was able to secure the damaged crampon. We were encouraged to make a try for the summit with Taylor and decided to give it a go. The Old Chute was a challenge with a combination of ice, and soft snow, but with only the 3 of us in the area, we were able to make our way up without having to worry about other climbers. Getting to the summit was a surprise, since that wasn't our goal for the day, and thus was an incredibly rewarding experience. Enjoyed great views before the nerve-racking descent down the chute and back down the Hogsback. Much thanks to Mike for fixing the crampon and to Taylor for happening by - this fortuitous meeting at the top of the Hogsback allowed us to make the summit on a day with unparalleled views and only 20 people on a mountain climbed by 10,000 per year!



Gear Notes:

Used crampons the whole way up. Occasional deep snow (mid calf) but mainly hard snow and ice. No one was roped up other than the climbers going up the ice off of Devil's Kitchen. Some were using two axes


Approach Notes:

High winds well past the top of the Palmer lifts. Finally died down at right before the crater. IMG_6785.JPG[


Edited by Bryhong

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Hey, I guess you are Mike. This is Daihong. I really appreciate your help with my crampon! It was definitely my most challenging and beautiful climb so far. Hope to see your adventures here too.

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