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Banff Ice Conditions thread

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Here is a thread on current Banff Ice Conditions for 2015/2016


The authoritative source is usually



But it isn't particularly comprehensive right now, so please feel free to add anything here




Things are generally in. The weather is mild right now and it has not snowed in a week. Stuff is not melting, but not really cold right now.

* Even Thomas Creek climbs are all in except Chantilly, which is out. Moonlight is in, Snowline is in, and 2 Low For Zero is as fat as I have ever seen it. Lots of traffic.

* Amadeus is in. It has not Chinooked yet.

* Cascade is in. Rogans Gully is in.

* Johnson Canyon is in

* His and Hers are not really climbable right now, Grotto is in and in WI2 shape. A good first lead.

* Professor is too wet to climb.

* Trophy Wall not really formed up. A lot of the other stuff on Rundle is quite fat.

* Whitemans in/hard

* Redman Soars in


Radium Highway


Stanley Headwall stuff is kind of thinner than some years, but mostly there. I did NOT get a look at Nemesis.

Hafner is on the thin side right now.





Access to the North Ghost is very difficult, as the berm that one used to drive on to get there after the big hill is washed out. So, no North Ghost for you!

That said, some other stuff in the Ghost is climbed from time to time, best to check GravSports for the latest there.




I did not get to look at Louise Falls, though it was on the list of things to do, sorry. It is quite a bit colder in Louise than anywhere else, so I imagine it's fine.


Edited by Alex

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I was there Dec 24-Dec 31. It has been generally cold (-20C / -5F) and everything we tried to get on was in. I didn't hear of any climbs being out. Ones I can specifically confirm are in, either because I climbed them or saw friend's photos of climbing them:


- Grotto Falls

- The Professor Falls

- Cascade Waterfall

- Haffner Creek area

- Junkyard area

- Guinness Gully

- Louise Falls (last pitch is not great)

- Spray River (Selenium) Falls

- Superbok

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Nothing to add to what's already been said, but Her's was in and saw at least a few ascents as of two days ago when I was there (1JAN). His still looked thin, but would probably go now.

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I can add a few to the list that rarly are in as good as they are now: Mixed Master is in and fat!! been waiting 20+years for that one.

Bourgeau left is fat but sunny. Pilsner and entire Field area is in great

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Wayne, no mention about Rocket Man being so in? My ears are still ringing from your orgasmic howls during the drive by.


EVERYTHING is in. It is a great season up here. It got pretty cold over the holiday week (O to -20F everyday, so the ice got pretty brittle) but temps are beginning to moderate now. It actually got into the low 20s Fahrenheit today in Field which is the highest I've seen since moving here in mid December

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Don't go to Rockies, nothing is in, everything is melting and avi danger is super high. Nothing to climb on, just stay in WA and enjoy the rain.

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Looking to maybe hit Banff Ice 3/10-3/14, but never been there before. Any condition updates beside "Don't go to Rockies" ?, or advice on conditions that late in the season ? Any well publish guide books for Banff Ice ?


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Just got back today from a trip up there. There will still be plenty of ice to climb in a couple weeks.....you will just have to be more careful in your selection. Anything north facing should still be in and fat. We climbed Professors, Spray River, Guinness Gully (plus Stout and High Test). If you drive up the Parkway there is plenty that is in as well. Just watch your avy danger and sun aspects. As for guides the 2 you have to chose from are Brent Peters' "Ice Lines" and Joe Josephson's "Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies". Search instagram or grav sports for a specific route to see recent conditions.

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