jacramer Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Went up the right gully yesterday. Bergschrund mantle was the crux move. The rest was mostly firm snow, with alpine ice at both steps. We actually found more ice, albeit low angle, on the descent down the south side... We had planned to descend Cooper Spur but conditions were too firm/icy on the eastern slopes. For whatever reason, not descending CS, seems like a popular choice. Is it possible that good conditions for the NF usually equal bad conditions on CS? Our overnight kit remains cached in the Cooper Spur climber hut. We plan to retrieve on Fri. If you happen to steal it, please be kind enough to let us know so we don't walk all the way in there for nothing. NE Face First 'ice' step Above the second step View of the hogsback area, for those interested. (Note party of two continuing up @~2:30) Gear Notes: Most of screws were questionable in the snow/ice mixture. An extra pickets would have been nice. Approach Notes: Snow flotation was unnecessary. Cloud cap road is closed, use Tilly Jane Trail (+1:45). Took approximately 50 cars before our "Hood River $20" sign worked, and we got a ride back to our car. Apologies to the party behind us. We were getting nailed by a lot of natural spindrift/ice fall. I imagine it was even worse for you guys. We hope you made it up and down safely. Edited November 23, 2015 by jacramer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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