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Val Zephyr

[TR] Jaberwocky Tower - East Face 10/24/2015

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Trip: Jaberwocky Tower - East Face


Date: 10/24/2015


Trip Report:

A few friends joined me for a late season trip up to the little tower known as Jaberwocky (located between Colchuck Lake and Colchuck Balanced Rock). It was a great choice for the late season conditions. Two short 5.6 pitches of fun climbing on the east face reach the summit. 360 degrees of impressive views including: Stuart, Colchuck, Dragontail, CBR, Colchuck lake and Cashmere make this one of the more scenic summits in the area.


A few photos:


Jaberwocky Peak:



Approaching via the basin below CBR:



The first pitch goes up on the right side of the east face to gain a ledge that traverses to just below an obvious chimney:



The second pitch ascends the chimney to the summit. The chimney protects very well and has some really fun moves:



Looking down from the base of the chimney. We had some wintry conditions during our little climb:



One double rope rappel or 3 single rope rappels down the east face will reach the base. Beware of rope-snagging trees if you go for the double rope rappel:



Happy climbers!



A few more views from Jaberwocky:







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In your last photo, it appears like the colchuck glacier is half melted out. Is that some rock from dragon tail obscuring the glacier or is it melted out so?

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The Colchuck Glacier really is that melted out. It was rather shocking. I doubt that it is anything less than easy ice right now to get to the summit via the normal walk-up route. We were all happy to see the snow fly this weekend up there!


I was pretty happy to get some interesting clouds for the photos on this trip. I actually spotted this little peak last weekend while I was up there on a photography focused trip. The weather was much more cooperative this time though. Too bad my friend with the better camera skills wasn't around this weekend, he might have gotten an even better pic of Jaberwocky with our little group on top. It might be worth setting up something like that for next year's larch season photography trip :)

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