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funnest winter mixed mountain climbs


JMS001

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One of my favorite areas for winter mixed is Snoqualmie Pass. Short drive for me (30 minutes), very accessible in winter, and a lot of really fun climbing. The Tooth, Chair Peak, Snoqualmie Peak all have good routes.

 

Cascade Pass as long as the road is drivable (usually until beginning of the new year) is another favorite. NE Ice Couloir on Eldo, NE Buttress of J'Berg, routes on Mixup all offer the goods.

 

 

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You should repeat "It Ain't Over Motherfuckers" on the East face of Pyramid. The middle crux is one of the best alpine mix I have ever done. Besides about 100m of easy snow (right after the end of first pitch), every other section will keep you occupied. Way better route then say "Shooting Gallery" on Andromeda in the Rockies.

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Hey JMS, how's it going?!

I'd recommend the E ridge of Alpha in mixed conditions.

 

Done it twice, both times great! Try to nail conditions when the trail to lake lovelywater is still dry and you can hike up with your boots in the pack. I've always stashed my shoes at the lake, and hit snow line just above.

 

There is a short pitch of M5, usually 5.7 or 5.8 in summer.

Then another slightly easier pitch above, then just really aesthetic 4th class mixed interspersed with tricky moves.

 

Also, in similar conditions, when the peaks are icy but the road/trail is dry, the Nesakwatch spires have great mixed climbing. Good rock and protection, lots of options both easy or hard. Well worth a look!

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I am a big fan of Colchuck in early season. The rock seems better that D-tail. Something for everyone there, including what look like stout unrepeated winter routes by cc celebrities!

 

I would extend that to the entire Stuart Range. Fine winter routes on D-Tail, Colchuck, Argonaut, Stuart, probably other peaks on Enchantment Plateau.

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I will be visiting Leavenworth from now until Mid-November. Any recommendations for alpine rock / snow / ice climbs that early? Or should I just bring the rock cragging gear?

Depending upon amount of snow and freeze melt cycles, NE Couloir on Dragontail could be in good nick by mid November. North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck could be in. If either of those are not in, a hike up Colhcuck Glacier will be doable.

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How about that gulley routers eldorado? Not sure it that qualifies as mixed but maybe early season

 

Any of the "ice routes" we got would be considered mixed, especially early season

 

East gulley of white chuck. Access is reasonable in early season so it would be mixed then. You could even nab a second winter ascent.

 

Or even the south face of der Tooth. No ice but fun scratching around

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How about that gulley routers eldorado? Not sure it that qualifies as mixed but maybe early season

I climbed it in November 2-3, 2002 and it was definitely mixed and super fun.

 

http://www.summitpost.org/nw-ice-couloir-eldorado-peak/689266

 

http://www.summitpost.org/nw-ice-couloir-eldorado-peak/689264

 

http://www.summitpost.org/nw-ice-couloir-eldorado-peak/689260

 

 

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Does anyone have beta/photos/comments regarding the northwest ice couloir on Eldorado peak. Is october a good time to go? rack suggestions (are pickets needed?)

 

Here is a route description I wrote with photos with links to other trip reports with photos: http://www.summitpost.org/northwest-ice-couloir/688985

 

To answer your specific questions, this route may be in condition in late October, but it needs a few snow/melt/freeze cycles first. When I did it on November 3rd, one party the weekend before and one party they day before us had made the entire approach only to turn around at the base feeling it was too bony. My point being, early November may even be too early, it depends on the weather between now and then and your idea of what 'in' means.

 

Here is what I recommend for a rack:

 

5-6 ice screws, mostly stubbies.

Pitons, a couple of Bugaboos and small angles

Selection of nuts.

Cams to 0.4 to 2"

We did not carry pickets and given the good rock and ice pro available did not think they would have been helpful. With more snow they might be good to take and are of course prudent for the glacier approach.

 

 

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