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dberdinka

first ascent [TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015

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Trip: Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route

 

Date: 9/25/2015

 

Trip Report:

After intermittent work over the last two seasons I finished up another new route on the North Face of Vesper Peak. Once again extensive cleaning revealed a sustained moderate line in an outstanding position. The highlight of the climb is a long finger crack up the middle of the headwall followed by positive face climbing to a great belay perch. Some of the climbing is only so-so but overall I was pretty happy with the end result. Belays are all bolted and protection is about 50/50 bolts and gear. Bring a rack to a #2 Camalot including small-to-large stoppers and some extra finger to off-finger cams.

 

Seasons starting to get a bit long in the tooth up there but it should be doable for a bit longer if you don't mind the chill and give it a day or two to dry out after rain.

 

Pitch Description

 

P1 Easy climbing on clean granite. Step left to a bolted belay below an obvious narrow chimney. 5.4 ~200'

 

P2 Up a groove to the squeeze chimney then a difficult move onto a short bolted slab. The chimney can be avoided by moving right into a short corner (watch for loose blocks at it's top) 5.8 100'

 

P3 A nice pitch. Slab, then a shallow corner, pull over a small overhang and follow jigsaw rock to a tiny belay ledge. 5.7 100'

 

P4 Climb the long sustained splitter with a crux step across where the crack disappears briefly. Fun juggy climbing leads to a belay at the crest of the headwall. 5.8 120'

 

P5 A short scruffy pitch of easy face and slab climbing leads to the top of the face. 5.6 (not 5.8 like in the image below!) 80'

 

 

Click for Larger Image

 

Vesper_Topo_RE_TG.jpg

 

 

Looking down the headwall at the intermittent finger cracks

 

pic16.JPG

 

 

Climbers on Pitch 4 of the Ragged Edge

 

image280.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Bring a rack to a #2 Camalot including small-to-large stoppers and some extra finger to off-finger cams.

 

Approach Notes:

See Ragged Edge TR

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:rocken:

 

How did you get the route overlay shot? Friend w drone? Google earth? telephoto from Sperry?

 

 

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My guess is the little bump on the ridge between Sperry and Vesper, but Darin will set me straight.

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Jason of course is correct. Such nice fall weather right now. I'd be up there again working on route three if I hadn't grievously sprained my ankle last week stumbling out that god forsaken trail with a 50 lb pack. Love that area.

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We did the route yesterday. Took a loose chossy gully instead of the 1st pitch due to snow. Fun day out, thanks for all the hard work establishing this!

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We climbed this route 6/24/17. Firm snow on the approach ledges make it a little more intense... I'm pretty sure the rope would have caught on a tree on the edge though, right? I really enjoyed this route. It isn't quite as good as Ragged Edge, but the setting is so fantastic. Thanks Darin. BTW, I found the crux to be low on the 5.8 pitch in the finger crack- the step over seemed pretty easy to me.

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