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[TR] Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route 9/25/2015


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Trip: Vesper Peak - True Grit II 5.8 - another new route


Date: 9/25/2015


Trip Report:

After intermittent work over the last two seasons I finished up another new route on the North Face of Vesper Peak. Once again extensive cleaning revealed a sustained moderate line in an outstanding position. The highlight of the climb is a long finger crack up the middle of the headwall followed by positive face climbing to a great belay perch. Some of the climbing is only so-so but overall I was pretty happy with the end result. Belays are all bolted and protection is about 50/50 bolts and gear. Bring a rack to a #2 Camalot including small-to-large stoppers and some extra finger to off-finger cams.


Seasons starting to get a bit long in the tooth up there but it should be doable for a bit longer if you don't mind the chill and give it a day or two to dry out after rain.


Pitch Description


P1 Easy climbing on clean granite. Step left to a bolted belay below an obvious narrow chimney. 5.4 ~200'


P2 Up a groove to the squeeze chimney then a difficult move onto a short bolted slab. The chimney can be avoided by moving right into a short corner (watch for loose blocks at it's top) 5.8 100'


P3 A nice pitch. Slab, then a shallow corner, pull over a small overhang and follow jigsaw rock to a tiny belay ledge. 5.7 100'


P4 Climb the long sustained splitter with a crux step across where the crack disappears briefly. Fun juggy climbing leads to a belay at the crest of the headwall. 5.8 120'


P5 A short scruffy pitch of easy face and slab climbing leads to the top of the face. 5.6 (not 5.8 like in the image below!) 80'



Click for Larger Image





Looking down the headwall at the intermittent finger cracks





Climbers on Pitch 4 of the Ragged Edge




Gear Notes:

Bring a rack to a #2 Camalot including small-to-large stoppers and some extra finger to off-finger cams.


Approach Notes:

See Ragged Edge TR

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We climbed this route 6/24/17. Firm snow on the approach ledges make it a little more intense... I'm pretty sure the rope would have caught on a tree on the edge though, right? I really enjoyed this route. It isn't quite as good as Ragged Edge, but the setting is so fantastic. Thanks Darin. BTW, I found the crux to be low on the 5.8 pitch in the finger crack- the step over seemed pretty easy to me.

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