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Sam Boyce

[TR] X38 - New routes at Gun Show 9/12/2015

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Trip: X38 - New routes at Gun Show

 

Date: 9/12/2015

 

Trip Report:

Finally had an alignment of the big three, time off, weather, and a partner. For those unaware, throughout this year i've been cleaning and bolting a number of climbs on the buttress to the far right of Gun Show. For what its worth heres a poorly drawn topo of the area.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaUhEdTJ5NUtiakE/view?pli=1

To get there, take the trail that gets you to endless bliss, from there, turn right and head down down a gully with a with a fixed line. Go past web slinger and continue up for a short distance and you should see the large obvious chimney. This is where 4 of the 5 routes are, for "welcome to the jungle" (the 3 pitch trad line) continue right to a small talus field, the whole climb will become visible. Here are the routes from right to left.

Welcome to the jungle

5.8 ** 3 pitches approx. 60m

FA Sam Boyce, Joe Manning, swap leads 9/11/15

It looked pretty easy from the ground, so i decided it would be a good opportunity to go ground up on something. After a bit of inspection i decided to trundle p1 on rap. Turned out to be a good idea as i pulled off many body sized blocks. The rock underneath however was bomber and gear options plenty. The pitches are unfortunately fairly short, but we decided to pitch it out for rope drag and communication. It might make sense to link either 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 for future ascents.

P1- Start on the lower left of the lower wall with a few chimney moves, move out right and follow the scrub line. Pull onto the big ledge and belay at the tree to the left. Super solid rock, good gear, and fun climbing. 5.8 ***

P2- Those not thrilled on adventure can downclimb a bit of 4th class to the right. This is where the route got its name. Start by monkeying up and around the belay tree and continue up the dirty chimney (climbs cleaner than it is) to the final ramp. Good gear belay. 5.5 *

P3- Get a couple pieces in and gingerly dance around the big scary block, easier climbing to the top out (loose). Walk either all the way to the trees at headlight point or build a gear anchor about halfway up (theres a solid anchor about 100 ft back from the top out and toward climbers right). 5.6 *

P4?- Walk up to Headlight Point then either hike out, or climb up and top out on headlight.

GEAR: SR from blue metolius to 3 (#4 is nice for P3)

Descent: Walk off from either headlight or top of eastern bloc

View of the Whole Route

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BejEwNUZfUlRHTkk

Joe leading P2

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BTW1BWVlhNkRSVVk

Leading P3

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BQzAxRUZNU3hIdmc

Anchor i used for the top of P3

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BdXJMRmdNX0RhRmM

Heading toward Headlight

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BWUZFaVlQVzJIN28

View from the top

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BZDRRWXRhZ0U4RDQ

?Dislocated?

5.11c *** 2 pitches. 40m

FA Kyle Elliot

The start of the climb is the overhanging clean dihedral just to the right of the chimney. I bolted this back around February, at the time i couldn't figure out the sequence for the start the dihedral so i made it an open project. Kyle Elliot snagged the FA, the name is a tentative, but derived from an apparent finger injury sustained on the crux. You can walk off/onto the P1 anchor ledge from climbers right through a couple trees. Shares P1 anchor with "Relocated" and P2 anchor with "Relocated" and "Stairway to Stem".

P1- Boulder up the dihedral then walk up the easy, but dirty slab to the anchors on the ledge above. 5.11c ***

P2- Face climb straight up, a couple options are available, the crux comes as another boulder problem to gain the final headwall headed toward the top. 5.10d ***

Gear: sport rack

Descent: Rap the route.

Base area of Dislocated

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BdWwzUnNDNWtkLWc

The starting Dihedral

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BRDJIekN4QjBjLW8

P2 is the flat face high center in photo

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc'>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc

Relocated

5.6 ** 2 Pitches. 40m

FA Sam Boyce (OS lead), Joe Manning (OS Follow) 9/11/15

The ramp located between stairway and dislocated. Looked like a short and fun little trad line, worth climbing for the final 25-30 ft. Shares P1 anchor with "Dislocated" and P2 anchor with "Dislocated" and "Stairway to Stem".

P1- Up the ramp/dihedral either cut right halfway up at a crack or continue further climbers left. 5.6 **

P2- Walk right across the ledge and start climbing at some blocky flakes. Up a 4th class slab to the final headwall (gear options if insecure on slab, but gear might increase rope drag). Continue right until you see the super broken up face. A few fun moves brings you to a super airy traverse (really fun) leftward. Continue straight up to the anchors. 5.6 ****

Gear: SR

Descent: Rap the route.

Start of the route

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BN183eFB3UU1vYVE

Leading P1

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaGt0N0xWRE5ZSkU

P1

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BcmpJdjJtWkE0cmc

The second Pitch

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BXzhxY1p3dlhzSWs

Stairway to Stem

5.9 **** 2 Pitches. 40m

FA Sam Boyce (OS lead), Andrew Nelson (OS follow) Feb 2015

The large obvious chimney. First route i bolted in the area. the massive debris field at the base is reminiscent of the sheer volume of rock and dirt that was removed from this thing. The lower part of the climb can tend to get dirty as it seems to be the funnel of debris in the area. Don't let this discourage you to much as the actual climbing stays pretty clean. Shares P2 anchor with "Relocated" and Dislocated"

P0- Comfortable parties may want to solo the 4th class stairway to the first bolt.

P1- Stem straight up, Fun and unique to the area. Top out right to continue on stairway, top out left to climb P2 of Baby Steps. If continuing on stairway there is an optional chainless belay right after the top-out, stop here or continue to the top. 5.9 ****

P2- Start by traversing right, head straight up on some fun and really airy face moves. Head straight up to the anchor. 5.9 ****

Gear: Sport Rack

Descent: rap to the P1 dislocated/relocated anchor then to the ground.

P1 is the chimney hugging the right edge of the photo

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ'>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ

Baby Steps

5.10b *** 2 Pitches. 40m

FA Sam Boyce (OS Lead), Joe Manning (OS follow). 9/11/15

Takes a line to the right of the massive nose shaped roof, starts just left to the start of stairway. Looked cool, the anchors on P2 were actually there (hangerless) when i scrambled up there, i'm guessing from when someone put up web slinger. Super clean on solid rock with good gear.

P1- Starts off on the blocky bit to the left of stairway, gain the initial slab (ignore the chains below the roof, they are for a project not yet completed). Its a bit runout, so those unaccustomed to slab climbing may find this the a tad spicy. first bolt is on a ramp feature, mantel past it and walk left to gain the next bolt. 2 face cruxes are separated by a really good jug that you can place gear from. The protruding block at the end of the second move is solid (i couldn't get it to come out with a crowbar) but use it at your own discretion. I yarded on it on lead and Joe followed without using it. Top out onto the slab and head straight to the anchor. 5.10b ****

P2- Head into the obvious dihedral. Bomber finger locks and solid gear brings you to a large block (again i couldn't remove it with a crowbar). Use the bolt, do not use the splitter crack behind the block for what should be obvious reasons. continue up the dihedral and finish on another low angle slab. 5.8+ ***

Gear: 4 bolts + SR with grey/blue metolius (protects crux), #4 is helpful in P1

Descent: Rap the route.

The route starts center, and follows right of the nose, P2 is the dihedral barely visible high center

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0VWcJ9Gce6BaU54bFVRNlRRdDQ

Chains on and below massive Nose roof

Incomplete as of 9/12/15. Intended line is to the left of the nose with possible aid line straight up the prow of it. Will complete when i make my next hanger order.

Edited by Sam Boyce

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Great addition of new routes on the far side of gunshow, lots of work went into the area for sure, thanks Sam! There's a bit of dirt and some rock you need to be a little careful with, but the climbing movement is fun and belay spots are comfortable. Anyone looking for some climbs longer than one pitch at exit 38 would enjoy a visit to the area.

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