Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
JasonG

[TR] Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge 7/19/2015

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge

 

Date: 7/19/2015

 

Trip Report:

Ten years after I climbed the upper north ridge and gendarme I returned to give the whole shebang a go with Trent, my usual rope gun. There is plenty of beta for the CNR aspirant so I won't bore you with the excruciating detail. Since we aren't young or particularly fast, we opted for the slow and steady plan from the Esmeralda road end- TH bivy, approach and climb lower NR to notch on day 1, up over and out on day 2. This meant that both days were around 11-12 hours, providing ample time to rest and enjoy the surroundings (or pant and grunt up the 5.9 pitches in my case). If you have the Kearney guide, we opted for the death pitch option on the lower ridge and found it to be clean, well-protected, strenuous lie-backing. We climbed Sunday-Monday and had the whole mountain to ourselves, which was a pleasant change of pace from the usual Stuart weekend gong show. The only thing I would add is that you might want to treat your water near the base of the NR or when you are melting snow at the notch. I didn't and came down with Giardia a couple weeks later when I was in the Bugaboos (though iron gut Trent did not). Not recommended.

 

Really though, the trip was an excuse to try out my new Canon S120. It is nice to finally be able to shoot RAW with a small camera that fits on my pack strap.

 

StuartCNR_12.JPG

 

StuartCNR_29.JPG

 

StuartCNR_53.JPG

 

StuartCNR_81.JPG

 

StuartCNR_84.JPG

 

StuartCNR_99.JPG

 

StuartCNR_107.JPG

 

Trent Photo:

P1110220.JPG

 

StuartCNR_126.JPG

 

Trent Photo:

P1110237.JPG

 

StuartCNR_131.JPG

 

StuartCNR_146.JPG

 

Cascadian Couloir Dirt Lines

StuartCNR_165.JPG

 

StuartCNR_171.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

No crampons or axe needed. Treat your water.

 

Approach Notes:

Goat pass. There was snow about a rope length below the notch for melting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The only thing I would add is that you might want to treat your water near the base of the NR or when you are melting snow at the notch. I didn't and came down with Giardia a couple weeks later when I was in the Bugaboos (though iron gut Trent did not). Not recommended.

 

That sucks but is somewhat ironically humorous that Trent didn't get sick. Nice work otherwise! :tup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Giardiasis is miserable, but at least it lasts a long time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Giardiasis is miserable, but at least it lasts a long time.

 

:laf: Tell me about it. This was my worst experience with giardia. I'm going to be more consistent with treating water, at least for a few years.

 

Glad you guys liked the photo, it was a pretty amazing sunset- i.e., not hard to take a nice picture of.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's funny, but this thread opened in the middle of the op's pictures and I thought "this has gotta be a JasonG TR." Nicely done, thanks a bunch.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×