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bmyers427

Crevasse Ice Climbing

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Sorry if this is an old topic or anything like that, but does anybody know the best place for doing toproped ice climbing on a glacier or anything like that? I'm in Seattle and I was hoping to find the closest and easiest approach for something like that. My current plan is just to head up towards Camp Muir and head over to the Cowlitz around maybe 8000 ft, but if there's anything closer or easier, I was hoping to find out. I'm trying to teach some new people how to ice climb before getting onto a long route with alpine ice.

Thanks,

Brett

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Bottom of the Coleman Glacier on Baker can't be beat for easy-access serac climbing. A few miles and something like 1500ft of elevation gain gets you there. I was there a few weeks ago, it's all ice now and was easy plastic ice.

 

At Rainier I go to the Nisqually for this, but unless everyone already has a Rainier climbing card it doesn't financially make sense to go to Rainier for serac climbing if you want to do it legally.

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I can send you some coordinates if you like. I hiked about an hour and half from Paradise and was on the lower nisqually. There is a series of ice shelfs and iced crevasesse. It is pretty obvious; we went there in a cloud because I work at the park and have been wanting to get out there ever since I saw them. I am sure higher on the glacier or elsewhere may afford more opportunities for climbing but these were the most accessible.

 

I dropped off from glacier visita as if you were going to go climb the Kautz glacier. Look across the glacier in the center there is a strip of ice surrounding by rock and there is a series of steps there which old crevassess no taller than 30-40 feet so quite small but really good bouldering. The ice is pretty soft right now like was noted by the above poster.

 

As noted, it is illegal to climb there without a pass so it is kind of a hassle if you do not have one already.

 

Edited by Greg_Malloure

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Bottom of the Coleman Glacier on Baker can't be beat for easy-access serac climbing. A few miles and something like 1500ft of elevation gain gets you there. I was there a few weeks ago, it's all ice now and was easy plastic ice.

 

 

Ditto on bottom of Coleman Glacier is probably the best idea. Easy to access, nice setting. Plus you get to avoid drving through Puyallup.

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I was on the Coleman Glacier yesterday with my fiancé and a friend of ours and found fun ice to get on very close to the climber's trail that gets onto the glacier below the hikers overlook.

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Typically, how is is first few weeks in November?

And....if anyone wants to go during those weeks let me know?

I'm a relatively newbie to the sport but have a strong rock climbing background.

 

Have my own tools, crampons, harness etc but no ice screws.

 

Been to Baker Seracs a few years back so I know the basics of ice climbing but want to get better at it.

 

Live in Vancouver, email me at gotnoname at g mail dot com

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That'll depend on snow. If we don't get any real snow down to 4000' then the seracs on the Coleman will still be dry and safe for wandering around. If we get snow down low then I'd be hesitant to walk around down there.

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Typically, how is is first few weeks in November?

And....if anyone wants to go during those weeks let me know?

I'm a relatively newbie to the sport but have a strong rock climbing background.

 

Have my own tools, crampons, harness etc but no ice screws.

 

Been to Baker Seracs a few years back so I know the basics of ice climbing but want to get better at it.

 

Live in Vancouver, email me at gotnoname at g mail dot com

 

I assume you live in Vancouver Canada? I would be interested in meeting you up at Baker and hitting the seracs. I am generally free on Fridays, and flexible during the week. Shoot me a PM.

 

 

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