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ivan

first ascent [TR] Tower Rock - FA - Rapunzel's Back in Rehab - C1 7/15/2015

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Another great write up!

 

A few notes to the 4 people who care. When you get old, no one wants to hear you complain about your shoulders. Just STFU and go get another steroid shot when you come back. So that's what I'm doing. BTW, treasure your shoulders and yer youth. I was reminiscing about when I could do 5 sets of 12 pullups. I'm working on getting one now -a clean one, that is, a full up and down pullup. I almost have it too.

 

2nd, we both knew that we had one big rock we both wanted trundled on this route. My frozen reptile brain had checked out. You said in a sensible monotone of no particular urgency as I got up to you on P6 or 7: "don't touch that block" as I came up to you. The words didn't register till I'd touched it and the damned thing was flying. So damned dumb. I knew Geoff was 20 feet off to the side, but didn't know that the rock would want to go off and try to kill him. Glad it didn't. Speaking of rocks, don't wander below folks without letting them know (cough**Kyle**cough**) as we almost killed a 2nd Silverman chucking off rocks. Shockingly, down below 800 feet and out of sight Kyle heard me yell "rock". We didn't hear anything from him though, although he says he was trying.

 

3rd: you noted it ain't over till it's over. Then Kyle wandered off and near got lost (he wasn't, just got suckered way off course by some nonsensical flagging that ended). Then we got the fella who crashed and thought we saved his life (we didn't). Worst of that part is that the Fire and rescue parade down a shit road with said injured man in it (Mike Warren and his capable son Reed Warren) didn't come off like a movie (Frozen reptile brain syndrome part 2). You noted again that it ain't over till it's over and it was over much later as it turned out. Like you said.

 

4th- Great shots Geoff! I love that last shot of Ivan where we're @ 1000 feet up. You don't even really see the base it's so far away. The pic from the left which the topo is drawn on is weak, looks like an easy slab. At least you can see the direction of the route though. The other direction shows it's true angle, it overhangs. Almost looks like a different rock altogether.

 

5th- note to climbers contemplating doing the route: although it's a 14 pitch monster of a climb, this is not committing unless you want it to be. The first 2 pitches alone are worth the drive up. You can rap to the ground any pitch from P5 below with 2 60 meter ropes (make damned sure they are 60's). And if you wanted to leave some gear, rapping from higher is possible. To get in shape I drove up as a day trip and soloed the first couple pitches twice. Got home once in time to cook dinner. That's from Portland, Olympia/Tacoma is closer. It's closer, bigger and better than Monkey Face fer sure. Bigger on a massive scale bigger I should note, but if you climb only the first 3 pitches, you've climbed about as much elevation as topping out on West Face of Monkey.

 

6th - There are some LONG reaches. Ivans 6'7", I'm @ a foot shorter and Geoff is my height. Glad he lead the "Dance's with Death" pitch. Named by my daughter Katrina after I'd described the line. One pitch higher (10?) I started and Ivan finished the drilling, I drew that for a lead and hit the spot we changed over by visual acuity. My bolts are so much easier to climb. Adjustable daisy's are nice, but if you might be even more height challenged, bring a cheater stick and mentally deduct some style points off yer dance card, it's fine and no worries if you do, and don't beat yerself up about it. P4 is hard (abiet short) for us short folks as it's a traverse and a lot of the normal cheating things us shorts do won't get it for you. I've both lead and followed it, prefer it as a lead X2. Much more enjoyable and I was better able to reach out there. I watched Ivan drill them on lead, I couldn't believe how far apart and difficult they were for me when I tried to follow him.

 

7th - For hooks, any bathook will work. Talons will get up it, but are short and insecure in the holes. We used the Petzl Reglettes and they are perfect. Leeper skinny hooks should work we too.

 

Lastly, I'll be along with some photos later, but want to note that this route wouldn't have been done without you Ivan. You conceptualized it and drove that bus harder, further, faster and better than both Geoff and I together could muster up. I'd like to thank you and Geoff again, many times thanks: but mostly - that's some proud work sir- congrats on creating a top notch awesome route that will be hopefully treasured by many in the years to come.

 

 

If anyone wants more info, advice or whatever, let any of us know and we'll try and help out as much as we can. But go get it ya all!

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Hell Yeah Boys!

I just want to say that every one of my trips to this place were memorable. Thank you, Eric, Bill & Geoff for having me along on your dreams, I truly cherish our times on the Rapunzel.

 

Sincerely,

 

Bryan Schmitz

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Very cool. Print out all the chapters and this would make an entertaining coffee table book. Thanks for taking us on the ride!

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Very cool. Print out all the chapters and this would make an entertaining coffee table book. Thanks for taking us on the ride!

 

Indeed, and you're only getting the cliff notes version. It's crazy to me, outside of the Jeff Thomasan world of fascinatingly interesting historical minutia, but if you know anything of intellectual substance and bring it: Ivan either knows the whole thing or more about it. Like a lot more! For example: as we're hiking through the woods, near wasted from carrying loads, the WW1 Wilfred Owen poem (Dulce et Decorum Est) comes to mind. Bent backs, like beggers.... I say out loud. Pretty much all I can remember till near the end when Owens writes "gas...gas..." or some such. Ivan has it memorized and starts reeling it off. I didn't even have the start correct whereas he has it nailed. "

Bent double, like old beggars under sacks,

Knock-kneed, coughing like hags, we cursed through sludge,"....etc

 

Declaration of Independence? Memorized.

 

Lyrics to some old NWA rap song: Memorized.

 

ANY military minutia? Memorized. on and on and on

 

 

 

Bryan, the pleasure was all ours man!!!! In fact, I think the best shot of this thread is the one I got of you hanging off the 4th pitch jug spinning around. Here ya are:

Bryan_Schmitz_jugging_in_space.jpg

I went up there with Jasmine and we camped at Pete and Pam's RV park. They put us back out of the way so for privacy and it was awesome. I did a solo lap and she hung with the pup and read which is one of her real pleasures. Corin would love that place you should get up there with her.

 

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good to know these old boys can manage the 3rd-world roads back to tower - glad we didn't need their service - all that blood n' sudden mania sure harshed on my mellow :)

 

11ipimv.jpg

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Memorized. on and on and on

 

whatever...all i learnt real good this trip was the members of ABBA :)

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Bold, but you guys need to get equipped with the latest russkie Choss & Moss gear if you're going to keep being as lunatic as them...

 

img_6742-edit.jpg

 

RFB.jpg

 

 

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Ho man, don't be getting Ivan all cranked up now Joseph. This route is what happened when we did it last time:-)

 

Mor photos later.

 

Resting on a ledge about 1000 feet up while Geoff toils above and Ivan quaffs one. The large mature Doug Fir trees seems smallish, and the Tower shadow cuts across them as if they were just so many blades of grass.

113450182_medium_1502316403.jpg

 

ps, The traverse behind me is best done to where I sit and not stopped at the anchor back there. Ivan left that rope fixed for ya'll. You'll appreciate it.

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