mfang Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 My first post here, but have lurked on the forums and trip reports for beta. This site is a great resource! I would like some advice on a solo trip to the North face of Shuksan in early-mid August. I live in CA and have not climbed much in the Cascades and am unfamiliar with the range's conditions/objective hazards. I have done the U Notch couloir of North Palisade in the Sierra but don't know if the two are comparable in terms of steepness, snow quality, and commitment. I picked August hoping that crevasses will be in open sight, the snow will be consolidated enough to require only crampons and ice ax (though I do have tools), and there will not be exposed ice. Would this be accurate given the past winter/spring in the Cascades? I appreciate any help, including suggestions to scrap this idea altogether and try an easier snow route on another mountain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 I suspect there will be exposed ice on the North Face in August, especially this year. I would definitely bring a pair of tools. I fell into a hidden slot on the NF, not sure what month that was though. The approach if done properly is not bad, if you botch it, well, expect some misery. The descent down the Fisher Chimneys is no gimme as far as descent routes go. NF Shuksan is a prototypical Cascades climb, it is not the technical aspect that is the hard part, it is the whole ball of wax. I would not recommend it as a first climb in the range. A climb in the same vicinity that I think you would dig is the Ruth-Icy Traverse. There are crevasses though, but I think you kind of have to take extra effort to fall into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 North Face is already sadly melted out. Final stretch is already discontinuous and lord knows if it will even exist in August. (North Face of North Twin is also snow free, not all that long ago it was a permamant snowfield). Not a great year to climb the classic snow/ice routes of the range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason4 Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Send me a PM with your email address, I might have a picture of the NF of Shuksan taken from the Winchester lookout that will give you an idea of current conditions. I agree that I would not recommend that as the first climb in the Cascades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfang Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the info - I'll check out the Ruth-Icy traverse! I'm looking to get more experience on snow and ice (AI2 - 3) but with the drought the window is very narrow in CA. My brother works in Portland so when I visit him it's hard to resist a diversion to the Cascades =) Edited July 15, 2015 by mfang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Ruth-Icy is not a technical ice climb, more of a very scenic high alpine tour/glacier traverse with a bit of rock climbing thrown in to summit Icy Peak. I suspect if NF Shuksan is already melted out then most of the techy alpine ice routes you would be potentially interested in will also be out of shape by August. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfang Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 (edited) Bummer, next year then! Aside from Shuksan NF, I've been looking at these: South Early Winters Spire – SW couloir Eldorado Peak - E ridge Mt Buckner - NF Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier What do you think of these for "easier" technical solos? Edited July 17, 2015 by mfang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Bummer, next year then! Aside from Shuksan NF, I've been looking at these: South Early Winters Spire – SW couloir Eldorado Peak - E ridge Mt Buckner - NF Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier South Early Winters Spire - SW Couloir will definitely be out, like just a crappy, loose, rocky gulley. Eldorado - E Ridge will be certainly be doable and is scenic but not technical. Similar in difficulty to Ruth-Icy. NF Buckner - NF. Likely out by mid August this year and you would have to cross the Boston Glacier which is a big, active, crevassed glacier. Mt Sutart - Ice Cliff Glacier. I suspect it will be out of condition by August. A bergschrund often forms that spans the entire width of the glacier and the gulley exit will likely be dry (loose, crappy rock). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 (edited) Here is a thought: NE Face of Eldorado. It is a moderate, technical ice climb in late season ~ AI 2. Somewhat contrived but genuine, actual ice climbing that may be in good shape in mid August this year. Here are some photos taken in late summer 10 years ago: http://www.math.wsu.edu/faculty/bkrishna/TripPages/EldoNEFace.html Edited July 17, 2015 by DPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfang Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 (edited) That looks fun! I'll definitely post back if I can make it happen. This may be just the right thing, on a nice peak too Edited July 18, 2015 by mfang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 I really didn't mean to be a buzz kill, I'm happy I came up with one quite good possibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfang Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 No way, thanks so much for your help! Obviously not your fault that all the routes are out this year - we can only hope for a better winter next year =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) Was just up there last weekend, and the only bare ice is small zone just above the bergschrund. The majority of the face is still a steep-ish snow climb. And the NF of Buckner certainly looked out of condition from our view at Klawatti Col. Edited July 27, 2015 by chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfang Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Thanks for the update, unfortunately I can't make it until August. I'll check back in a month and see how things look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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