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Gib Ledges Beta


nattybumppo

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tried for a week to get on the ledges right around new years...snow was very deep and the weather most foul the whole damn time...rmi failed the whole week to get any of its folks even up to muir....i myself have never felt so whipped on that mountain as i did the last 1000 feet up to muir in the screaming wind

 

that said, if the weather cooperates and the snow conditions have improved slightly, the ledges looked quite tasty...i'd plan on taking 3 days for it, and don't get stuck up top in a storm (for 2 days i thought the muir hut was going to blow away)

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  • 3 weeks later...

A couple of friends and myself are planning an attempt to happen in the next few weeks, and I have a question. Since I'm the nominal leader of our little group, I have been researching the route and have a question. In the CAG Beckey describes rappelling at some point to a lower ledge. Fine. I know the old route slid away many years ago and that there is a bypass. However, Mike Gauthier, in his guide, specifically writes, "Traverse and ascend the ledges (do not rappel or downclimb!)"

 

Can anyone who's done the route please shed some light on this subject? I'm up for finding my way and all, and we're comfortable with the hazards specific to this route. But, I don't want to lead us into some particularly hairy place if that is what's behind Ranger Gauthier's exclamatory statement.

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From Muir, just head up the ridge or slope to right in rising traverse. Eventually it will put you onto the ledges. Should be no problem just following them the most logical way. Do'nt try to go up or down another level. You'll come out to a steep slope/chute going up to the right. It's pretty easy route to follow.

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I believe that when I climbed the route I did in fact drop something like fifty feet to pass around some rocks, but as everyone has stated -- it was obvious where to go. I'm guessing that Mike's "warning" is based on some confusion that actually happened more than once, but maybe at another time of the year or something.

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