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nattybumppo

Gib Ledges Beta

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Has anyone tried Gib Ledges in this new year? Alternatively, Mr. Gauthier? News from the front?

 

A good buddy will be here from CO in two weeks, itching to climb, and he only thinks in units of 14,000' these days.

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tried for a week to get on the ledges right around new years...snow was very deep and the weather most foul the whole damn time...rmi failed the whole week to get any of its folks even up to muir....i myself have never felt so whipped on that mountain as i did the last 1000 feet up to muir in the screaming wind

 

that said, if the weather cooperates and the snow conditions have improved slightly, the ledges looked quite tasty...i'd plan on taking 3 days for it, and don't get stuck up top in a storm (for 2 days i thought the muir hut was going to blow away)

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A couple of friends and myself are planning an attempt to happen in the next few weeks, and I have a question. Since I'm the nominal leader of our little group, I have been researching the route and have a question. In the CAG Beckey describes rappelling at some point to a lower ledge. Fine. I know the old route slid away many years ago and that there is a bypass. However, Mike Gauthier, in his guide, specifically writes, "Traverse and ascend the ledges (do not rappel or downclimb!)"

 

Can anyone who's done the route please shed some light on this subject? I'm up for finding my way and all, and we're comfortable with the hazards specific to this route. But, I don't want to lead us into some particularly hairy place if that is what's behind Ranger Gauthier's exclamatory statement.

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The giant eyebolt was still there last time I went that way. You don't need to rap, though.

 

It's pretty obvious when you get to the notch. There is just a little elevation gain and loss on the travese, until you get to the exit chute.

 

Wear a helmet.

 

-Loren

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Tell your friend you'll take up a nice 8,000 foot peak and make it Johannesburg. Then see what he thinks of his 14ers back home. bigdrink.gif

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I didnt know hiking Colorado 14er's counted as "climbing"...

 

seriously, though, what Loren said. The Gib Ledges is std winter trade route on Rainier, you guys should have a fun time.

 

wink.gif

 

Alex

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From Muir, just head up the ridge or slope to right in rising traverse. Eventually it will put you onto the ledges. Should be no problem just following them the most logical way. Do'nt try to go up or down another level. You'll come out to a steep slope/chute going up to the right. It's pretty easy route to follow.

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I believe that when I climbed the route I did in fact drop something like fifty feet to pass around some rocks, but as everyone has stated -- it was obvious where to go. I'm guessing that Mike's "warning" is based on some confusion that actually happened more than once, but maybe at another time of the year or something.

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