Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
kinkbmxco

Stuart West Ridge Conditions

Recommended Posts

Planning on Stuart West Ridge next weekend and was wondering if anyone has been up lately. I was thinking no on crampons and yes to ice axe for descending the cascadian couloir. Anyone have beta?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was there on 6/20. The 400 ft gully up to the 15 pitch upper route was snow filled. We turned back. Two other parties also turned back. There were two parties climbing the entire 30 pitch route. We forgot to ask about Cascadian Couloir

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did the West Ridge on 6/27. Decided to take an ice axe and crampons to be safe. Ended up not being necessary to have them, though I was happy to have my ice axe.

 

There was still a little patch of snow as you make your way over to Long John Tower. A group that passed us did not have crampons or ice axe. If the snow was harder, probably wouldn't have been very much fun

 

There is still a big snow patch on the way down the Cascadian Couloir. Once again, the snow was soft enough that crampons and ice axe weren't necessary but I was happy to have my axe. (Just depends on comfort level).

 

Here is an picture from over the weekend with some landmarks... hopefully I didn't mess our route up too bad. It is approximate.

West_Ridge.jpg

 

High Resolution Image

Edited by kinkbmxco

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did the West Ridge July 2 - 3. There's still some small patches of snow as you make your way to Long John Tower but they can be avoided. We had ice axes but they were not needed. We setup our bivy just behind Long John Tower where we found pockets of snow to help rehydrate. The heat had definitely taken a toll on us so make sure you hydrate! There are still minor trickles of water in the first gully so fill up whenever possible. With the high temps the remaining snow pockets wont last much longer.

 

We headed to the West Ridge notch in the morning and found it after some minor route finding issues. From the notch we worked our way up to a ledge just below the final pitch and after a few short pitches of off route low 5th climbing were finally made the summit. To our surprise we hadn't seen anyone else during our climb and had the summit to ourselves.

 

We descended via Urlichs which has small patches of snow which can be avoided. When in doubt trend right. Lots of flowing water so fill up whenever possible. About 2/3 of the way down we came to a constriction and steep waterfall. We thought about rapping this section but decided it was easier to traverse skier's left for 10 minutes or so. This gave us easy access to the next gully which we followed down to the trail.

 

Pics can be seen here: https://picasaweb.google.com/112659747688504533474/Stuart

 

Edited by KevinC71

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×