stamati Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 Trip: Squamish - Milk Road and Bulletheads East Date: 6/11/2015 Trip Report: Not much to report other than that these are spectacular routes of a moderate grade. Milk Road's penultimate pitch is the best pitch I have ever done. My buddy and I came very close to onsighting the crux .10d/.11a corner on the 4th pitch which was quite exciting as this was the season's granite crack climbing warm up. We did a team onsight of Bulletheads East, which proved to be an engaging but mellow outing on our last day in Squamton. I led the final two pitches, a .10c stem box (totally new type of climbing for me!) and the .10c finger crack, which had pretty short lived cruxes and good rests. I especially had fun running out the easier sections and ended the third pitch with what was essentially a solo on 5.8/.9 terrain. I can see why people love soloing- just going without placing gear is a meditative experience. We cragged at the Bluffs, getting on Power Windows (this climb has me very stoked on slab!), onsighting Climb and Punishment, which we found to be fairly easy, and getting spanked on Partners in Crime. Actually, I sent the climb somewhat yo-yo style after I fell with the first two pieces placed. I hopped back on and got up it, but it was hard for me. I tried for the true redpoint after that but was totally worked. What most excites me about this first trip of the season is to refine my technique and cruise .10s and sent most 5.11s. I have the physical strength but there is a special way to climb granite which I am so stoked to learn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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