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[TR] Mount Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier 5/24/2015


jiri

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Trip: Mount Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier

 

Date: 5/24/2015

 

Trip Report:

This is just a short TR about the conditions on the Jefferson Park Glacier. The glacier is in good shape with two solid ways to cross the bergschrund.

 

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Two of us went up the avalanche cone and the second rope team up the bridge.

 

The knife-edge ridge and the summit pinnacle were completely rime ice covered.

 

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Gear Notes:

For the 4 of us we had 2 30m ropes, 4 pickets, 4 screws, 2 small racks. With last weekend conditions the pickets were the most useful.

 

Approach Notes:

Whitewater TH

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We went down the Whitewater glacier. It is longer but there was a booth path set from teams climbing that side. The snow was very soft below red saddle for about 500ft. Not what we were hoping for after a long day. The traverse below the pinnacle has a lot of objective hazard from falling rime ice. We had one close call.

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Nice work Jiri and team!

 

Pardon my inter-TR-posting, but I have a bit of info on the W side and skiing conditions per Water's question:

 

On 05/25 at ca. 1 pm my partner and myself skied SW and W aspects of the NW ridge. Weather began as upper 20s and was ca upper 30s with sun (mostly) during the ski descent. Snow was tasty corn. I expect all W and SW aspects of the MT are consistent with what we had...the climbing was fabulous.

 

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Looking East from Woodpecker ridge

 

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Thousands of feet of corn

 

Go get it!

 

P.S. The following day we discovered Mt. Washington's W bowl to have enough snow for similar skiing (softer) from the base of pinnacle to treeline.

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Tough to say, but I know it's been muy caliente, windy, and bright as a mofo for most of that time, and the prominent rock features melt out first (like the pinnacle). But - if you could get within visual distance of the mountain, you'd be able to tell with a decent pair of binos.... I personally have never laid eyes on the west face of Jefferson from farther away than standing on it... hard aspect to catch a look at for some reason.

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