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[TR] Mount Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier 5/24/2015


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Trip: Mount Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier


Date: 5/24/2015


Trip Report:

This is just a short TR about the conditions on the Jefferson Park Glacier. The glacier is in good shape with two solid ways to cross the bergschrund.




Two of us went up the avalanche cone and the second rope team up the bridge.


The knife-edge ridge and the summit pinnacle were completely rime ice covered.




Gear Notes:

For the 4 of us we had 2 30m ropes, 4 pickets, 4 screws, 2 small racks. With last weekend conditions the pickets were the most useful.


Approach Notes:

Whitewater TH

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We went down the Whitewater glacier. It is longer but there was a booth path set from teams climbing that side. The snow was very soft below red saddle for about 500ft. Not what we were hoping for after a long day. The traverse below the pinnacle has a lot of objective hazard from falling rime ice. We had one close call.

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Nice work Jiri and team!


Pardon my inter-TR-posting, but I have a bit of info on the W side and skiing conditions per Water's question:


On 05/25 at ca. 1 pm my partner and myself skied SW and W aspects of the NW ridge. Weather began as upper 20s and was ca upper 30s with sun (mostly) during the ski descent. Snow was tasty corn. I expect all W and SW aspects of the MT are consistent with what we had...the climbing was fabulous.




Looking East from Woodpecker ridge




Thousands of feet of corn


Go get it!


P.S. The following day we discovered Mt. Washington's W bowl to have enough snow for similar skiing (softer) from the base of pinnacle to treeline.

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Tough to say, but I know it's been muy caliente, windy, and bright as a mofo for most of that time, and the prominent rock features melt out first (like the pinnacle). But - if you could get within visual distance of the mountain, you'd be able to tell with a decent pair of binos.... I personally have never laid eyes on the west face of Jefferson from farther away than standing on it... hard aspect to catch a look at for some reason.

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