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[TR] Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir 5/16/2015

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Trip: Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir


Date: 5/16/2015


Trip Report:

I drove over to Leavenworth after work Friday and hiked in to Colchuck Lake where I set up camp around sunset. I didn't set an alarm but awoke with the rising sun the next morning. I packed and left the lake around 6 am and reached the summit just before 8:30. The route was in good condition with a single steep snow step near the beginning of the couloir and no ice to be found. The snow was mostly crust on mush and there were a few sections postholing. The couloir gets morning sun and the crust softens really quickly - if I could go back in time I would have tried to start around 5 instead of 6. I was a little worried about finding the route after crossing on to the NW face but it ended up being obvious (even without tracks). There is no need to touch rock until the last 5-10 feet before the summit and even there it is very easy 3rd class.


All in all this was an awesome route and I look forward to getting back up there sometime.


There really isn't any reason to rope up with the route's current condition but if you are planning to use a rope just know that the snow is way too soft for vertical pickets and there is no ice to put screws in.


Beginning of the traverse into the NBC.



Beginning of the rising traverse onto the NW face.



Midway up the NW face.



Gear Notes:

I used ice tools (quarks) which made for pleasant daggering but I think you could get away with using a single traditional axe if you are comfortable with steep snow.

Edited by Rodion

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