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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs 5/10/2015


brianbauer

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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs

 

Date: 5/10/2015

 

Trip Report:

Conditions report. Super warm last weekend...heard rock fall all night and almost called it. Started climbing around 4:30am and the snow in the couloirs was actually much better than expected. Runnels were still in, but it'll be a mixed climb shortly.

 

first_runnel_two.jpg

second_runnel.jpg

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

6 screws (used all)

2 KB (used none, party behind us used a bunch)

2 Pickets (used both)

Set of nuts (used one nut)

Single rack .3-2 (used all except #2, if soloing the couloirs, only bring medium cams)

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We were the third group on the route that day. There was a major rock or icefall that happened right behind us in the first couloir. It came down from overhead on the left flank. Other than that we didn't get anything significant other than what the two teams ahead were knocking off of the runnels. I also didn't hear any rockfall overnight, even though our tent was only about 30m from OP. Guess I was sleeping soundly!

 

Later in the day we saw and heard a few bomb as we descended from the pass and hiked out.

 

We used a couple pins. In fact we used some of everything on the climb - slung a natural feature, 3 pins, 2 hexes, a tri-cam, 2 nuts, 2 cams, 1 picket! All in 150m of climbing - we solo'd to the runnels and in the couloirs. In the stuff we protected I didn't see anything larger than a medium to smallish nut or cam/hex to maybe .75 C4 size max.

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diepj, yeah we weren't sleeping well that night :) It was mostly small stuff coming down (not necessarily in TC), but made me nervous...due to being a pansy.

 

Anyway, had a couple rocks zing past right about where diepj described the large rockfall. Other than that, nothing.

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