Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
jefetronic

[TR] Colfax Peak - Ford's Theatre 5/9/2015

Recommended Posts

Trip: Colfax Peak - Ford's Theatre

 

Date: 5/9/2015

 

Trip Report:

Thank you, Andrew Fabian and Dana Bellows for putting this route up in late April. Their trip report made it look like another fun ice route on what is now a very familiar NW face and it was an easy decision for Dale and I to head back up there after great success on the Polish Route the weekend before.

 

Dale's primary desire was to ski Baker while mine was to climb ice, so we compromised. Our harebrained plan was to climb Ford's Theatre with skis on our backs, descend to the Colfax-Baker saddle, and then skin up the Roman Wall to the Baker summit before skiing down.

 

We left Seattle at 4:30am on Saturday morning and were hiking up the trail by around 7:30am. As we were skinning up to the route, we saw a party of three low on the Polish Route and a pair of two guys bailing from the Cosley-Houston, mentioning that the ice was pretty rotten. Nevertheless, we finished up the approach to see what was in store for us up there. Skis were quite handy as a bunch of new snow had fallen since last weekend.

 

DSC02249.jpg

Heading up to the route

 

DSC02257.jpg

On the crux with some silly-looking skis on his back

 

DSC02272.jpg

Finishing the ice pitch

 

Dale headed up on our 70m lead line at about noon and found the ice in better condition than it looked from afar. Things had thinned up since the FA and there was a bit of 'spring cleaning' to be done near the crux to enable safe passage to the upper steps, but it went smoothly for a full rope length to the couloir above. I had to move the belay pretty far away from the route to get out of the line of fire of some big chunks. Once I met him at the belay, Dale suggested that I move quickly as the three screws he'd placed were fully in the sun. I'd been thoroughly showered by running water on my way up and didn't need any more motivation, knowing it was only getting warmer.

 

DSC06396.jpg

Finishing the ice pitch with a great view of Lincoln. It is Ford's Theatre after all.

 

DSC06400.jpg

Heading up the couloir toward the shared finish with the Cosley-Houston

 

DSC02276.jpg

Looking down from near the top

 

After a bit of low-angle ice, the couloir turned to steep snow with secure steps, but little in the way of protection. After making it over a knife-edge ridge, I traversed to the Cosley-Houston exit and we finished simul-climbing to the summit at about 2pm.

 

After downing lunch on the summit, we descended to the saddle, left our technical gear, and skinned to the summit of Baker at around 4:30pm. It was incredibly warm with no breeze and felt like being on a beach. Dale enjoyed himself thoroughly on the ski down while I successfully survival skied through the sloppy snow. Good times and a great linkup for those inclined.

 

DSC06411.jpg

Skinning up the Roman Wall on Baker with a view to our descent from Colfax

 

Gear Notes:

Used: 12 screws

Didn't use: 3 pins

 

Approach Notes:

Easy hike and skin. Snow was plenty soft to not need ski crampons by the time we hit it at 8:30am.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome work! Way to kill it! You guys are on quite the roll. Also cool to see a stronger party string it all together into a single 70m pitch, and with skis on your backs nonetheless!

 

I'm glad someone was able to get on it again this season! I am very interested to see how often this route comes in in future years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×