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R. Ding

[TR] Unicorn Peak - Tatoosh - Standard (The Roof) 5/2/2015

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Trip: Unicorn Peak - Tatoosh - Standard (The Roof)


Date: 5/2/2015


Trip Report:

Ed, Mark, and I set off from Seattle at 7 am with hopes of blue skies, corn, and minimal bootpacking. (We met Nick and his basic climbing class students there.)


Routefinding very straightforward -- our only mistake was descending right at the saddle, we ended up having to climb up a loose, icy, no-fall gully. Instead, climb up the steep snow on the left side. The terrain rolls over and it's a short walk on a snowy ridge to the base of the summit block. Ed led the "The Roof", a surprisingly fun 2 move wonder. Lots of other options to the summit!


We hung around the summit block for a little while and didn't descend until about 3 pm. Snow was corn up top, mashed potatoes past the lower chute.



Ed and the first chute.



Nick's students coming up the first chute.



Ridge before the summit block.



Ed at the gnarled tree belay.


Gear Notes:

30 m rope and very light rack, 0.3"-1" plus a set of nuts were plenty.


Approach Notes:

We brought skis along and were able to start skinning just past the lakes (about ~1 mile in). Snow was icy in the shade, but ski boots were stiff enough.

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