Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
OlympicMtnBoy

[TR] Mt. Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier 5/24/2014

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt. Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier

 

Date: 5/24/2014

 

Trip Report:

Ok, so I’m way behind on TR writing, but this seemed sort of timely, if not too late given the snow year.

 

Last memorial day my buddy Chad and I decided to take a little road trip down to Oregon as the weather looked bad for our originally planned Glacier Peak ski (I think someone posted a wet TR of that trip anyways). It looked like a bit of a window for Mt. Jefferson and neither of us had been there before.

 

We piled all the gear in my 1977 Chinook and cruised on down the road. We got our permit and a map at the ranger station and decided that based on the snow pack we might have a better start via Woodpecker Ridge than Pamelia Lakes. I'm not sure why this approach isn't mentioned more as it got us higher with the snow conditions and worked well. We drove 90% of the way there before hitting a decent sized snow patch in the road that I was sure the little Chinook wouldn’t make it through. We had time though and two shovels so after 45 minutes of digging and putting the chains on, we were able to make it all the way to the trailhead to spend a drizzley night.

 

IMG_3861.jpg

IMG_4398.JPG

 

We woke to clearer skies and began hiking with the skis and boots on our back. After a couple miles we hit the PCT and some more snow, but the aspect and the trail side slope made for somewhat annoying travel and we decided not to ski yet. We continued hiking north past a small tarn originally heading for the Russell Glacier but at Jefferson Creek we saw a great snow field heading straight up so we stashed our approach shoes and started skinning. It was a beautiful but hot 3000 ft climb up to a bench around 8500’ where we found snow melt puddles and a wonderful spot to pitch the megamid. We decided to chill there and climb the next day, enjoying an amazing sunset.

 

IMG_4402.JPG

 

IMG_4410.JPG

 

IMG_4416.JPG

 

IMG_4432.JPG

 

IMG_4433.JPG

 

In the morning we skied onto the Russell Glacier and then booted up an icy slope and over the shoulder to the Jefferson Park Glacier. After some more skinning we ditched our skis at the bergschrund and continued up the final 1000’ or so. We hit the rime covered ridge and roped up for a couple of pitches of fun scrambling in deteriorating conditions. The crux was a single ~8’ step of gently overhanging rime that I somehow overcame to reach easier slopes above. Without the rime it’s probably 3rd class but I was glad I had a second tool. Chad followed and we celebrated the summit in a whiteout.

 

IMG_4449.JPG

 

IMG_4451.JPG

 

IMG_4457.JPG

 

IMG_4461.JPG

 

IMG_4464.JPG

 

IMG_4469.JPG

 

After a short break on the summit we reversed course and rappelled off a horn in the gulley to avoid reversing the ridge. Some steep downclimbing brought us back to our skis and we clicked in for the fun part. The upper part of the glacier was still scratchy but we had a few good turns lower down and were able to nearly ski all the way back to camp.

 

IMG_4475.JPG

 

IMG_4480.JPG

 

IMG_4485.JPG

 

IMG_4491.JPG

 

We broke camp quickly and continued our ski down with a wonderful 3000’ run back to our shoes. We managed to leave the skis on for some of the PCT section back and made a final camp just for fun near the junction with the woodpecker ridge trail. We could have gone the last two miles but we had food and didn’t need to be back so soon.

 

IMG_3871.jpg

 

IMG_3871.jpg

 

In the morning we made the final hike in a drizzle and then cruised on back home. Although there was a little bit of hiking with skis on the back, I thought this was a great ski adventure and worthy of more attention. The little bit of climbing to the summit added that perfect spice too!

 

 

Gear Notes:

Light skis, a few nuts, 2 link cams, 2 screws, 1 picket, ice axe and short 2nd tool. Used the axes, picket, one nut and one cam.

 

Approach Notes:

Woodpecker Ridge worked given the snow at that time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for posting, Stew! Nice to be reminded of how perfectly we hit that window and the complete solitude we had. Your uninhibited lead around the rime bulge still inspires me to this day!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the report, that has been on my list for some time. Need to make it happen!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the report, that has been on my list for some time. Need to make it happen!

 

Thursday night/Friday morning... let's do it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thanks for the offer Ben, but I'm laid out with a cold of biblical proportions right now. Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×