Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Adam Ox

[TR] - Mt Hood- Reid Headwall 5/2/2015

Recommended Posts

Trip: - Mt Hood- Reid Headwall


Date: 5/2/2015


Trip Report:

I went for my first run at the Reid Headwall Sat, May 2. I had talked with a friend earlier in the week about the climb but he decided he needed to sleep in and climb Sunday instead after a week of staying out till 1am every night. I work Sunday so with a good weather forecast and no one to slow me down I decided to go for it solo.

I finished playing a gig at a wine bar in Milwaukie at around 11:15pm Friday night, drove home and switched out drums for skis and ice tools, and headed up to Timberline for a beautiful moon-lit night on the mountain. I left the car at 3am and started to slog up to Illumination Saddle, getting there in the predawn around 5:20. I talked to 2 other climbers at the saddle. One of them wasn't feeling well and was turning back. His friend decided to solo Leutholds. Looks like I was gonna have the route to myself:)

I headed down to the glacier on perfect firm snow and quickly hiked up to the schrund, my first spicy climbing of the day. Getting up over the small vertical lip of the schrund proved to be rather interesting as the snow was sugary and solid axe placements were non existent. I slammed one in sideways into the slope almost like a deadman anchor and manteled off of it to get myself off of the small snow bridge I had been nervously standing on for a really long minute or two. I let out a little whoop as my nerves settled into the idea of being solo on this climb for the next few hours:)

The next hour or two was just perfect type 1 fun weaving up the climb, alternating between 40-60+ degree hard snow/snice/styrofoam. At around 7:45, I found myself looking up at a buttress of rime covered mushroom looking features that separated two giant gullies of the upper Reid Headwall. I knew the standard route went climbers left at this point, and that the gully to the right would lead up to where the west crater rim route tops out. The ridge looked like the most interesting thing I have ever seen and I thought to myself "go for it. This is why you're here. To make decisions and climb things that look amazing!"

I attacked the buttress! It was the most fun climbing with tools I have ever done. Back and forth small vertical steps of rime and ice would then mellow out for a few feet before getting steep again. I bypassed one slightly overhanging mushroom climbers left on an extremely exposed traverse:) overall this part of the climb was probably about 400-500 vertical feet of AI2-AI3+ and topped out ~200 ft below the west summit, meeting up with the other west side routes and landing me in my first taste of sunshine all day.

I strolled across the ridge line to the summit just before 9am amidst at least 40 south siders. It was a real summit party. Not really my scene after having enjoyed a beautiful solitary mountain experience for the last 3hrs. I quickly ran down the old chute and was skiing down the groomers by 10am. A glorious day on a new route for me on one of my favorite mountains:)



Gear Notes:

2 tools, brought a picket and 2 screws in case I got spooked at some point and wanted a secure rest but never used em


Approach Notes:


Edited by Adam Ox

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job! .....I was over on Wy East the same morning, and can vouch to the crazy number of people on south-side Saturday. By the time we got up top they were mostly gone, fortunately. Reid Headwall's on my list....any more pics?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very fun route... legit alpine experience. They say the North Face is Hood's great, one-true alpine line- I say BS, Reid is way better, especially if you follow the headwall all the way up to the ridge - which is sounds like you did. I'm not sure why "the book" has the route exiting the towers to the left, at the top, when there's still stellar climbing to do if you just continue straight up... that last bit is my favoritest part of the climb.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
They say the North Face is Hood's great, one-true alpine line- I say BS, Reid is way better.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this