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Buckaroo

[TR] Dragontail - Triple Couloirs in Stellar Condition 4/30/2015

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Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs in Stellar Condition

 

Date: 4/30/2015

 

Trip Report:

Triple Couloirs is still in 20 year gift conditions. Get it while it's still cold. Looks like temps are trending just like it was on this date. Weather.gov for Colchuck lake was high 40, low 24.

 

Climbed solo in 4.5 hrs. The entire route either alpine ice or mostly firm snow. Beautiful plastic ice. Boot steps in the snow, mainly in the upper couloir. Would grade the cruxes AI3.

 

Wanted anti-balling plates on the crampons coming down Aasgard, did not have. Also forgot sunscreen but luckily remembered sunglasses. Route gets a little afternoon sun but just briefly and in spots, full shade in the AM. Normal descent (Aasgard) gets sun from mid morning on. Recommend a very early start as sun and rising temps break things loose, and this route is one long drop chute to the bottom.

 

One of those routes where once you get in it you can't see very far ahead, lots of twists, turns, and steepness changes that block the view, so soloing you can't see if it will go. Like each couloir transition is hidden until you get to it. Plus you can't see how long the ice pitches crux is.

 

The hardest thing about soloing something like this (for me anyway) is working up the courage to commit while you're bivied at the base. Once you get going it's okay, it's just getting started that's tough.

 

Failed to get a call back person, thought the text went through while driving through Leavenworth but it didn't. Tried texting/calling from the summit, had 4 bars (Verizon) but failed multiple tries.

 

Gear

Petzl Dartwins

1- 1st gen Cobra

1- Nomic

1- HELMET

no rope, no pro

 

Better report with pics when I get the time.

 

 

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