Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
maurop

Pipeline - Squamish Climbing

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, just curious if Pipeline (10d) in Squamish can be done using only cams, like the 5 or 6 camalot. What would the runout be like from the last spot where a #6 would work to where you could pop another 6 or 5 in? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What would the runout be like from the last spot where a #6 would work to where you could pop another 6 or 5 in?

 

That depends on the size of your balls.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wasn't the first free ascent done as a free solo? If I recall, the first ascent was with pieces of sawed-off pipe as protection, hence the name?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What would the runout be like from the last spot where a #6 would work to where you could pop another 6 or 5 in?

 

That depends on the size of your balls.

 

Hahaha

 

Alas, they're not big enough to free solo the route! Are they big enough to be willing to take a whipper though......? tbd

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wasn't the first free ascent done as a free solo? If I recall, the first ascent was with pieces of sawed-off pipe as protection, hence the name?

 

Sounds somewhat right. I think I read on another forum that the first ascent was with some sawn-off pipe for pro. The 2nd ascent was a free solo.These old school guys had massive balls

Edited by maurop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A #6 BD barely fits anywhere on pipeline. A #5 is absolutely useless. The largest wild country friend I believe is a tiny bit larger than the #6 BD and you might be able to slide it in some sections, but if you don't want to run it way out you need a #9 valley giant or two.

 

I put a fairly tipped out #6 at the start of the steep offwidthing, and ran it out about 25ft to the bolt. That part is pretty easy, 5.10- heel-toe kind of stuff.

 

From the bolt to the apex of the overhang is legit burly offwidthing, sandbag for 10d. Kicking high heel-toes in the back with your body hanging out of the crack. 'Hevy Duty' protected this section with a #6 stacked against a block of wood! If you are gonna do that you had better be super confident questing out into a sea of scary hard offwidth burliness.

 

I laybacked from the bolt to the apex of the overhang (more like 10d than climbing straight in) placed a sketchy #3 big bro then crawled back inside the crack. From there you have about 25ft of 5.9 heel toes again. Even though I had my rope clipped to the big bro, it felt like a pretty dangerous maneuver crawling back into the offwidth.

 

Super classic pitch! Basically, bring a #9 VG unless you are a total boss at wide cracks. Or layback the crux then crawl back inside but accept that you might dismember yourself on the ramp if you blow it.

 

I'd recommend Wild Turkey on the bulletheads too, you don't need big gear for it and it's classic and burly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ditto to all of Marc's info. I did it with a #9 VG and it's the right size but cams like that can be prone to rotation and it's still a lot of distance with one piece of pro.

 

Also, second the comment about Wild Turkey -- that is a classic and I will be much more likely to repeat it than Pipeline! And you can get good gear the whole way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×