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Pipeline - Squamish Climbing


maurop

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Hi everyone, just curious if Pipeline (10d) in Squamish can be done using only cams, like the 5 or 6 camalot. What would the runout be like from the last spot where a #6 would work to where you could pop another 6 or 5 in? Thanks!

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What would the runout be like from the last spot where a #6 would work to where you could pop another 6 or 5 in?

 

That depends on the size of your balls.

 

Hahaha

 

Alas, they're not big enough to free solo the route! Are they big enough to be willing to take a whipper though......? tbd

 

 

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Wasn't the first free ascent done as a free solo? If I recall, the first ascent was with pieces of sawed-off pipe as protection, hence the name?

 

Sounds somewhat right. I think I read on another forum that the first ascent was with some sawn-off pipe for pro. The 2nd ascent was a free solo.These old school guys had massive balls

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A #6 BD barely fits anywhere on pipeline. A #5 is absolutely useless. The largest wild country friend I believe is a tiny bit larger than the #6 BD and you might be able to slide it in some sections, but if you don't want to run it way out you need a #9 valley giant or two.

 

I put a fairly tipped out #6 at the start of the steep offwidthing, and ran it out about 25ft to the bolt. That part is pretty easy, 5.10- heel-toe kind of stuff.

 

From the bolt to the apex of the overhang is legit burly offwidthing, sandbag for 10d. Kicking high heel-toes in the back with your body hanging out of the crack. 'Hevy Duty' protected this section with a #6 stacked against a block of wood! If you are gonna do that you had better be super confident questing out into a sea of scary hard offwidth burliness.

 

I laybacked from the bolt to the apex of the overhang (more like 10d than climbing straight in) placed a sketchy #3 big bro then crawled back inside the crack. From there you have about 25ft of 5.9 heel toes again. Even though I had my rope clipped to the big bro, it felt like a pretty dangerous maneuver crawling back into the offwidth.

 

Super classic pitch! Basically, bring a #9 VG unless you are a total boss at wide cracks. Or layback the crux then crawl back inside but accept that you might dismember yourself on the ramp if you blow it.

 

I'd recommend Wild Turkey on the bulletheads too, you don't need big gear for it and it's classic and burly.

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Ditto to all of Marc's info. I did it with a #9 VG and it's the right size but cams like that can be prone to rotation and it's still a lot of distance with one piece of pro.

 

Also, second the comment about Wild Turkey -- that is a classic and I will be much more likely to repeat it than Pipeline! And you can get good gear the whole way.

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